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hold communal meals and sagre—outdoor festivals that celebrate the harvest of a cherished local food. Such gatherings are a testament to Tuscans’ abiding attachment to the seasonal rituals that are the foundation of rural life here. In Buggiano (pictured), where I live, we have several alfresco feasts each year, but our summertime cena (the name simply means dinner) is the most special because all of the food is prepared by local home cooks. The dinner, which is held in our main piazza, is a lavish potluck: there are platters of antipasti, including crostini topped with seasonal ingredients, and Herbed Tomato Tarts. There are pastas, and a main dish of roast pork, fragrant with garlic and herbs. And for dessert: a spread of pastries, followed by glasses of locally made limoncello, and dancing that goes on late into the night.

—Beth Elon

Herbed Tomato Tart

Cookbook author Beth Elon, who lives in Buggiano, Italy, provided this recipe for a Tuscan-style cherry tomato tart. She prepared it for her village’s annual outdoor summer feast (pictured; also see “Alfresco Feast,”, and it would serve just as well for any barbecue, picnic, or other outdoor meal.

2 9 x 11-inch sheets frozen puff pastry, thawed and chilled

½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

12 anchovy filets in oil, drained and finely chopped

3 lbs. cherry or grape tomatoes Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

¼ cup minced flat-leaf parsley

2 tbsp. minced fresh chives

2 tbsp. minced fresh oregano Freshly grated nutmeg, to taste

Serves 12–16

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Fit the pastry sheets side by side in a parchment paper–lined 13 x 17¾-inch rimmed baking pan, pressing the pastry against the bottom and sides. Press together the center where the two sheets overlap to make an even seam; trim the pastry hanging over the sides of the pan. Prick the bottom of the pastry with a fork. Line the bottom and sides of the pastry with parchment paper and fill with dried beans or pie weights. Bake until the edges of the tart are golden, about 25 minutes. Remove the beans and parchment paper, sprinkle Parmigiano-Reggiano over the tart shell, and bake until the cheese is melted and the tart shell is golden all over, 15–20 minutes. Transfer to a rack and let cool.

2. Heat the oven to broil and arrange a rack 4 inches from the heating element. In a large bowl, mix together the olive oil and anchovies; add the tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Toss to coat. Transfer the tomato mixture to another rimmed baking pan and broil, shaking the pan once or twice, until the tomatoes blister, about 12 minutes. Remove the tomatoes from the oven and let them cool slightly. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the tomato mixture to the prepared tart shell and distribute the tomatoes evenly over the shell.

3. Lower the oven heat to 425°F. In a bowl, combine the parsley, chives, oregano, and nutmeg. Sprinkle the herb mixture evenly over the tomatoes. Return the tart to the oven and bake until hot, about 15 minutes. Let the tart cool slightly before serving, or serve at room temperature.

Hummus with Tahini

Hummus B’Tahina

The building blocks of this most popular of Mediterranean mezes, or small plates, couldn’t be simpler: chickpeas, sesame paste, lemon juice, garlic, and not much more. Yet these few ingredients can yield incredibly nuanced flavors and a sumptuous texture, and versions vary in subtle and not-so-subtle ways from family to family, kitchen to kitchen, country to country.

5 oz. dried chickpeas

1 tsp. baking soda

6 cloves garlic, crushed

1¼ cups plus 3½ tbsp. tahini

½ cup plus 2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice Kosher salt, to taste

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish

1/8 tsp. sumac or paprika, for garnish

1 tsp. finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, for garnish Sliced pickles, for garnish Pita, for serving

Makes 4 cups

1. In a medium bowl, combine chickpeas with 6 cups cold water and stir in baking soda; cover and let soak overnight. Drain chickpeas, transfer to a 2-qt. saucepan, and cover