Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [101]
Restaurang Källaren Kronan (41 14 00; Ölandsgatan 7; mains Skr135-275; closed Mon) Six cellars have been transformed into a high-calibre experience, where a select evening menu is served under a cosy vaulted ceiling. There’s even a 17th century–inspired menu, with mains like wild boar fillet with apple and plum compote.
Ernesto in Totale (200 50; Larmtorget 4; mains Skr148-248; lunch Sat & Sun, dinner Mon-Sun) Run by a real-deal Neapolitan, this Italian cafe, restaurant and bar also attracts scores of people with its baristi, extensive menu (including Neapolitan-style pizzas), and well-mixed drinks.
Both the Coop Konsum supermarket (Storgatan 24) and Systembolaget (Norra Långgatan 23) are centrally located.
Entertainment
The Biostaden (122 44; tickets Skr90) cinema is in the Baronen shopping centre on Skeppsbrogatan.
Getting There & Around
The airport (45 90 00; www.kalmarairport.se) is 6km west of town. SAS (0770-72 77 27) flies several times daily to Stockholm Arlanda, while Kalmarflyg (www.kalmarflyg.se, in Swedish) flies to Stockholm Bromma. The Flygbuss airport bus (Skr40) provides connections to central Kalmar.
All regional and long-distance buses depart from the train station; local town buses have their own station on Östra Sjögatan. Regional buses are run by Kalmar Länstrafik (0491-76 12 00; www.klt.se, in Swedish), including buses to Öland.
Roughly three Swebus Express (0771-21 82 18; www.swebusexpress.com) services daily run north to Västervik (Skr185, two hours), Norrköping (Skr224, four hours) and Stockholm (Skr224, 6½ hours); and one to three services daily run south to Karlskrona (Skr82, 1¼ hours), Karlshamn (Skr110, two hours), Kristianstad (Skr182, three hours), Lund (Skr247, four hours) and Malmö (Skr247, 4½ hours).
Svenska Buss (0771-67 67 67; www.svenskabuss.se, in Swedish) has four services per week on the same route; journey times and prices are similar. Silverlinjen (0485-261 11; www.silverlinjen.se, in Swedish) runs one to three daily direct buses from Öland to Stockholm (Skr280), calling at Kalmar; reservations are essential.
SJ trains run every hour or two between Kalmar and Alvesta (Skr151 to Skr164, 1¼ hours), where you can connect with the main Stockholm–Malmö line and with trains to Göteborg. Trains run to Linköping up to nine times daily (Skr238, three hours), also with connections to Stockholm.
For bicycle hire (summer only), contact Team Sportia (212 44; Södravägen 2; per day/week Skr100/400; Mon-Sat). Taxi Kalmar (44 44 44) can help you get around town.
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GLASRIKET
With its hypnotic glassblowing workshops, the ‘Kingdom of Crystal’ (www.glasriket.se) is Sweden’s third-biggest drawcard after Stockholm and Göteborg. There are at least 11 glass factories (look for glasbruk signs), most with long histories: Kosta, for example, was founded in 1742. The region is also immensely popular with Americans tracing their ancestors, many of whom emigrated from this area at the end of the 19th century.
The glassworks have similar opening hours, usually 10am to 6pm Monday to Friday, 10am to 4pm Saturday and noon to 4pm Sunday. Expert glass designers produce some extraordinary avant-garde pieces, often with a good dollop of Swedish wit involved. Factory outlets have substantial discounts on seconds (around 30% to 40% off), and larger places can arrange shipping to your home country.
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HERRING À LA GLASSWORKS
Glassworks were once more than just a workplace – they were a community hub and an after-hours gathering spot for workers, hunters and vagrants. They were the place to go to keep warm on long winter evenings, tell stories, make music and enjoy the company of others. Naturally, good grub and drink were a vital part of these gatherings – strong aquavit (a potent, vodka-like spirit) was shared and food was cooked using the furnaces and cooling ovens. Today visitors to Glasriket can partake in hyttsill parties, schmoozing at long tables and munching on trad-style dishes like salted herring, smoked sausage and the regional speciality ostkaka