Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [100]
Krusenstiernska Gården (41 15 52; Stora Dammgatan 11; adult/child Skr25/7; house tours hourly 1-3pm Mon-Fri Jun-Aug; garden 11am-6pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun Jun & Aug, 11am-6pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm Sun Jul, 11am-5pm Mon-Fri, noon-5pm May, 11am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep) is a stuck-in-time 19th-century middle-class home, around 500m from the castle’s entrance. Tours of the house are on the hour, but entry to the beautiful gardens and cafe is free.
The striking Kalmar Konstmuseum (42 62 82; www.kalmarkonstmuseum.se; Stadsparken; adult/under 20yr Skr40/free; 11am-5pm, to 8pm Wed), in the park near the castle, dishes out brilliant temporary exhibitions featuring local and global art-scene ‘It’ kids.
Västerport was the original point of entry into the city. Nowadays you can watch glass-blowing and pottery-making at the studios here, and buy the results.
Sleeping
Stensö Camping (888 03; www.stensocamping.se; Stensövägen; sites/cabins Skr170/500; mid-Mar–Sep; ) There are family-friendly facilities galore at this campsite, 3km southwest of town, including swimming; boat, canoe and bicycle rental; a restaurant; and minigolf. Buses 401 and 411 stop around 600m away.
Hotell Svanen (255 60; www.hotellsvanen.se; Rappegatan 1; dm Skr195, s/d from Skr540/680; ) This ‘low-price hotel’ is an excellent choice, with simple, pleasing rooms with cable TV and private toilets. The SVIF hostel (Click here) is part of the hotel, sharing the all-day reception, kitchen, drinks machines and sauna. Svanen is on the island of Ängö, about 1km north of town; walk, or take bus 402.
Söderportshotellet (125 01; Slottsvägen 1; s/d Skr550/735; mid-Jun–mid-Aug) Right outside the castle, Söderportshotellet offers summertime accommodation in student digs. Rooms are modest yellow-washed affairs; some on the upper floor have castle views. There’s a super cafe-restaurant downstairs with regular blues and jazz gigs.
Slottshotellet (882 60; www.slottshotellet.se; Slottsvägen 7; s Skr1190-1390, discounted to Skr1090-1190, d SKr1590-1790, discounted to Skr1390-1590; ) Kalmar’s top pick is this wonderfully romantic, cosy hotel, based in four buildings in a gorgeous green setting near the castle. Most rooms have antique furnishings and some even feature vintage Swedish tile stoves. Staff are wonderful and there’s an on-site summer restaurant.
Frimurarehotellet (152 30; www.frimurarehotellet.com; Larmtorget 2; s/d Skr1240/1460, discounted to Skr820/995; ) In the heart of the action, this 19th-century building contains spacious, personable rooms with polished wooden floors. The plant-filled lounge comes with complimentary tea, coffee and biscuits, while one cheaper room (about Skr200 less) has a hallway shower.
Eating & Drinking
A good area for upmarket dining is the harbour; the view of huge timber yards and cranes is industrial, but you don’t want showy sailing boats all the time…
Kullzenska Caféet (288 82; 1st fl, Kaggensgatan 26; snacks from Skr30) The pick of the town’s cafes, this gorgeous maze of genteel 19th-century rooms features original tiled stoves and furniture. There’s a range of sandwiches and cakes (try the yummy fruit crumbles).
Bistrobar (200 50; Larmtorget 4; pizzas Skr94-99, mains Skr169-189) The glam new kid in town, this restaurant-bar combo has an enviable location on a fountain-studded square. While the chocolate wicker lounges and Café del Mar tunes make for a perfect vino session, ditch the overpriced, underwhelming mains for the more satisfying pizzas.
Byttan (163 60; Stadsparken; lunch buffet Skr95, dinner mains Skr89-189) Set in the park by the castle, sassy resto-bar Byttan combines a chi-chi terrace with velour lounges and a crackling fire inside. The bistro-style menu ranges from grilled meats to salads, with a competent cocktail list to sex things up.
Calmar Hamnkrog (41 10 20; Skeppsbrogatan 30; mains Skr130-245; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) Harbourside Hamnkrog serves the best food in town, its small but well-formed menu combining Swedish favourites and continental