Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [99]
Länstrafiken Kronoberg (0771-76 70 76; www.lanstrafikenkron.se, in Swedish) runs the regional bus network, with daily buses to Halmstad, Jönköping and Kosta. Long-distance buses depart beside the train station. Svenska Buss (0771-67 67 67; www.svenskabuss.se, in Swedish) runs one or two services daily to Eksjö (Skr210, 1½ hours), Linköping (Skr290, 3¼ hours) and Stockholm (Skr390, 6½ hours).
Växjö is served by SJ trains running roughly hourly between Alvesta (on the main north–south line; Skr37 to Skr55, 15 minutes) and Kalmar (Skr118, 1¼ hours). A few trains run daily directly to Karlskrona (Skr118, 1½ hours), Malmö (Skr214, two hours) and Göteborg (Skr240, 3¼ hours).
Return to beginning of chapter
KALMAR
0480 / pop 61,530
Not only is Kalmar dashing, it claims one of Sweden’s most spectacular castles, with an interior even more perfect than its turreted outside. Other local assets include Sweden’s largest gold hoard, from the 17th-century ship Kronan and the story-book cobbled streets of Gamla Stan (Old Town) to the west of Slottshotellet.
The short-lived Kalmar Union of 1397, when the crowns of Sweden, Denmark and Norway became one, was agreed to at the castle.
Information
You’ll find banks and other services on Storgatan.
Library (45 06 30; Tullslätten 4; closed Sun May-Aug) Offers free internet access. Bring ID.
Tourist office (41 77 00; www.kalmar.se/turism; Ölandskajen 9; 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun late Jun–mid-Aug; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat rest of Jun & Aug; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, 10am-1pm Sun early–mid-Sep; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm May & rest of Sep; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Oct-Apr) Handy for information on the region.
Sights
KALMAR SLOTT
Fairy-tale turrets, a drawbridge, a foul dungeon and secret passages…yes, Kalmar Slott (45 14 90; adult/5-16yr Skr80/20; 10am-6pm Jul; 10am-5pm Aug;10am-4pm May, Jun & Sep; 11am-3.30pm Sat & Sun Apr & Oct; 11am-3.30pm 2nd weekend of month Nov-Mar) has everything that a proper castle should. This powerful Renaissance building was once the most important in Sweden, and it’s fortified accordingly. It also boasts one of the best-preserved interiors from the period.
King Erik’s chamber is a real scene-stealer. Erik’s rivalry with his brother Johan caused him to install a secret passage in the loo! There’s also a superb suspended ceiling in the Golden Hall; eye-boggling wall-to-wall and floor-to-ceiling marquetry in the Chequered Hall; an elaborate bed, stolen as war booty then carefully vandalised so that no Danish ghosts could haunt it; and a delightful chapel, one of Sweden’s Most Wanted for weddings.
For more information, join one of the guided tours (in English at 2.30pm late Jun, also 11.30am & 1.30pm Jul–mid-Aug, 11.30am only mid-Aug–early Sep), included in the admission price. There are also children’s activities here in summer.
KALMAR LÄNSMUSEUM
The highlight of this fine museum (45 13 00; www.kalmarlansmuseum.se; Skeppsbrogatan; adult/under 18yr Skr50/free; 10am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun mid-Aug–mid-Jun), in an old steam mill by the harbour, are finds from the 17th-century flagship Kronan. The ship exploded and sank just before a battle in 1676, with the loss of almost 800 men. It was rediscovered in 1980, and over 22,000 wonderfully preserved items have been excavated so far, including a spectacular gold hoard, clothing and musical instruments.
OTHER SIGHTS
Aft and slightly to port of the county museum, Kalmar Sjöfartsmuseum (158 75; Södra Långgatan 81; adult/7-12yr Skr30/10; 11am-4pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, noon-4pm Sun mid-Sep–mid-Jun) houses an eccentric maritime collection, with bottled ships, foghorns and things made out of knots and armadillos.
Home to a spectacular pulpit, the baroque Domkyrkan (Cathedral; Stortorget) was designed by Tessin, King Karl X Gustav’s favourite architect.