Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [98]
Opposite the library, Växjö Konsthall (414 75; Västra Esplanaden 10; admission free; noon-6pm Tue-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun) showcases contemporary work by local and national artists; expect anything from minimalist ceramics to mixed-media installations.
Looking like an ode to Pippi Longstocking, the bizarre Domkyrkan (Cathedral; 9am-5pm) has been struck by lightning and repeatedly ravaged by fire – the latest renovation was in 1995. Waiting inside is a fine 15th-century altar and a whimsical contemporary sculpture by Erik Höglund. Don’t miss the Viking rune stone in the eastern wall.
In 1542, Småland rebel Nils Dacke spent Christmas in Kronobergs Slott, now a ruin. The 14th-century castle is on a small island (reached by footbridge) in Helgasjön lake, about 8km north of the town. Boat trips (70 42 00; adult/5-12yr Skr125/50; Wed, Sat & Sun Jun-early Sep) on Sweden’s oldest steamship, Thor, leave from below the ruins. Take bus 1B from town. Inquire at the tourist office about guided summer walking tours (5.30pm Tue & Thu) of town.
Sleeping
Evedals Camping (630 34; evedals.camping@telia.com; Evedalsvägen; sites Skr190, 4-/5-bed cabins Skr750/900) Evedal is a huge lakeside recreation area, 6km north of the centre. Perks include beaches, swimming, canoeing and boating (Skr175/250 per half-/full day) on Helga lake. In addition, there are two restaurants nearby: Restaurang Brunnen and the more upmarket Evedals Värdshus.
Växjö Vandrarhem (630 70; www.vaxjovandrarhem.nu; dm from Skr200; ) Also at Evedal, this former spa hotel dates from the late 18th century. All rooms have washbasins, and there’s a big kitchen, a laundry and a wonderful lounge in the attic. It’s well loved, so book early. Take bus 1C from town.
Elite Stadshotellet (134 00; info@vaxjo.elite.se; Kungsgatan 6; s Skr550-1450, d Skr650-1850; ) At the time of research, new rooms were being built and bathrooms were getting a make-over at this look-at-me 19th-century building. Single rooms aren’t particularly roomy but all are smart and comfortable, and there’s a slinky glassed-in restaurant-bar for urbane sipping and supping.
Hotell Esplanad (225 80; www.hotellesplanad.com; Norra Esplanaden 21A; s/d Skr850/950, discounted to Skr550/720; ) One of the cheapest central options is the Esplanad, it has unfussy yet bright and adequate rooms. There are a few even cheaper rooms with corridor bathrooms.
First Hotel Cardinal (72 28 00; cardinal@firsthotels.se; Bäckgatan 10; s Skr956-1296, d Skr1396-1696, s/d discounted to Skr696/896; ) A jump up in quality, the central Cardinal offers simple, stylish rooms with Persian rugs and the odd antique touch. There’s also a small fitness centre, a bar and a restaurant serving modern Nordic nosh.
Eating & Drinking
Askelyckan (123 11; Storgatan 25; closed Sun) This this too-cute bakery-cafe is a top lunch spot, with sandwiches, baguettes, great pastries and a large shady courtyard.
Orient Kebab (120 32; Storgatan 28; meals around Skr55-75; to 9pm) Don’t let the lurid plastic Arabian Nights exterior put you off; this no-frills joint serves satisfying kebabs, falafel, burgers and pizzas to take away.
Café Momento (391 29; meals around Skr70) Smålands Museum’s in-house cafe serves brilliant hot and cold gourmet sandwiches, pies, salads, soup, spuds and cakes. In summer, nibble blissfully in the cute courtyard.
PM & Vänner (70 04 44; Storgatan 24; mains Skr159-259; closed Sun) Stylish and sexy, PM & Vänner serves up new-school Swedish flavours with global twists. Local produce sparkles in dishes like lumpsucker roe with yoghurt jelly, apple- and citrus foam, oatmeal crunch and potatoes, while the occasional DJ sets keep fashionable foodies humming.
There’s an ICA supermarket (cnr Klostergatan & Sandgärdsgatan; to 8pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) and Systembolaget (Klostergatan 14).
Getting There & Away
Småland Airport (75 85 00; www.smalandairport.se) is 9km northwest of Växjö. SAS (0770-72 77 27; www.flysas.com) has direct flights to Stockholm-Arlanda; Fly Smaland (0771-71 72