Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [97]
Sleeping
Eksjö Camping (395 00; info@eksjocamping.nu; sites Skr140, 2-/4-bed cabins from Skr300/450) This friendly nook by picturesque Husnäsen lake, about a kilometre east of town, has a restaurant and cafe, plus minigolf and good swimming. There’s also a hostel (dorm beds Skr250).
STF Vandrarhem Eksjö (361 70; vandrarhem@eksjo.se; Österlånggatan 31; dm/s/d from Skr200/300/470) In the heart of the old town, this vandrarhem is based in a supremely quaint wooden building, with a gallery running round the upper floor. Reception is at the tourist office.
Stadshotell (130 20; info@eksjostadshotell.se; Stora Torget; s/d Skr995/1350, discounted all summer to Skr745/990, nonsummer weekends Skr595/890; ) The flouncy-looking Stadshotell dominates one edge of the huge 19th-century main square. Bland decor aside, rooms are comfy and roomy, with flatscreen TVs and good-sized bathrooms. There’s an elegant restaurant-bar to boot.
Hotell Vaxblekaregården (140 40; www.vaxblekaregarden.com; Arendt Byggmästares gata 8; s/d Skr950/1350, discounted to Skr650/950; ) Set in a converted 17th-century wax-bleaching workshop, this boutique number features stylish, pared-back rooms with wooden floorboards, Carl Larsson–inspired wallpaper and wrought-iron bedheads. The lounge-laced backyard hosts barbecues and live music gigs on Saturday evenings from mid-June to mid-August.
Eating & Drinking
Lennarts Konditori (61 13 90; Stora Torget) With an outdoor terrace and views of dramatic Stora Torget, the place to go for cakes, crêpes and quiche is this old-school konditori (bakery-cafe).
Amasian Taste (100 20; Norra Storgatan 23; lunch Skr75, pizzas Skr69-85, à la carte dishes Skr79-189) ‘Amasian’ might be pushing it, but this modest East-meets-West joint does a decent, well-priced lunch buffet for those sick of meatballs and mash.
There’s both a central Hemköp supermarket (Österlånggatan) and a Systembolaget (Södra Storgatan 4).
Getting There & Around
The bus and train stations are in the southern part of town. The tiny länståg (regional train) runs up to seven times daily to/from Jönköping. Local buses run to Nässjö (Skr42, hourly to 6pm, then less frequently Monday to Friday, three to four at weekends). Swebus Express runs two buses on the Göteborg–Jönköping–Eksjö–Vimmerby–Västervik route on Friday and Sunday.
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VÄXJÖ
0470 / pop 79,560
A venerable old market town, Växjö (pronounced vak-choo, with the ‘ch’ sound as in the Scottish ‘loch’), in Kronobergs län, is an important stop for Americans seeking their Swedish roots. In mid-August, Karl Oscar Days commemorates the mass 19th-century emigration from the area, and the Swedish-American of the year is chosen. Another town highlight is a fantastic glass collection.
Information
Pedestrianised Storgatan has banks and other services.
Tourist office (414 10; www.turism.vaxjo.se; Västra Esplanaden 7; 9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat Jun-Aug, 9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri rest of year) Shares a building with the library, which offers free internet access.
Sights
Utvandrarnas Hus (Emigrant House; 201 20; www.utvandrarnashus.se; Vilhelm Mobergs gata 4; adult/under 19yr Skr40/free; 9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun May-Aug, 9am-4pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat Sep-Apr) boasts engrossing displays on the emigration of over one million Swedes to America (1850–1930). It also includes a replica of Vilhelm Moberg’s office and original manuscripts of his famous emigration novels. The centre also houses an excellent research facility (open Tuesday to Friday only, reservations advised) for those tracing their Swedish ancestors (see boxed text.
Next door, Smålands Museum (70 42 00; www.smalandsmuseum.se; Södra Järnvägsgatan 2; adult/under 19yr Skr40/free; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, closed Mon Sep-May) has a superb exhibition about Sweden’s 500-year-old glass industry, with objects spanning medieval goblets to cutting-edge