Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [105]
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VÄSTERVIK
0490 / pop 36,460
Västervik is a popular coastal summer resort, with cute cobbled streets, buzzing nightlife, sandy beaches just east of town, and 5000 islands on the doorstep. Harried by the Danes in its early years, it bloomed into a major shipbuilding centre between the 17th and 19th centuries. Famous sons include former tennis player Stefan Edberg and ABBA’s Björn Ulvaeus. Björn often returns in mid-July for VisFestivalen, Västervik’s famous folk-song festival.
In a striking old art nouveau bathhouse, the tourist office (889 00; www.vastervik.se/turist; Strömsholmen; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat May-late Jun, 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun late Jun-Aug, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-Apr) is located on an islet linked by road to the town centre. The library (887 77; Spötorget; Mon-Fri summer, also Sat winter) has free internet access.
Sights & Activities
Ask the tourist office for its town-walking brochure, which leads you round the best of Västervik’s beautiful old buildings. St Petri Kyrka is a dramatic mass of spires and buttresses, while the older, calmer St Gertruds Kyrkan (Västra Kyrkogatan) dates from 1433 and has taken lightning strikes and riots in its stride.
Nearby, Aspagården (Västra Kyrkogatan 9), dating from the 17th century, is the oldest wooden house in town. Other abodes from the 1740s can be seen at picture-perfect Båtmansstugorna (Båtmansgatan) – former ferrymen’s cottages.
Displays at Västerviks Museum (211 77; admission Skr20; 11am-4pm Mon-Fri, 1-4pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, 11am-4pm Tue-Fri, 1-4pm Sun Sep-May), just north of the tourist office, cover the town’s history. You’ll also find Unos Torn here, an 18m-high lookout tower with archipelago views.
Various archipelago tours (adult Skr100-150) depart from Skeppsbron daily from mid-June to the end of August. Contact the tourist office for information and tickets, or buy tickets directly at the Skärgårdsterminalen pier kiosk.
Sleeping
The town bursts at the seams in summer, so book your accommodation ahead.
Lysingsbadets (889 20; lysingsbadet@vastervik.se; sites low/high season Skr150/270, hostel beds per person Skr135/170, cabins from Skr195/405; ) This huge, five-star ‘holiday village’ by the sea (2.5km southeast of town) features a restaurant, golf, a swimming pool, beaches, and boat, bicycle and kayak hire, as well as extra activities like pony trekking. The hostel opens June to August, but cabins and hotel rooms are available year-round. Take local bus 5 (Skr15).
Båtmansstugor (317 67, 194 03; Strömsgatan 42; cottages per person Skr300) This delightful collection of 18th-century fishermen’s cottages sits in an atmospheric old part of town. Most sleep four and have their own kitchen, though bathrooms are shared.
Västerviks Stadshotell (820 00; info@stadshotellet.nu; Storgatan 3; s/d Skr1340/1820, discounted to Skr880/1180; ) Central Stadshotell flaunts modern, comfortable rooms, a sauna, Jacuzzi and gym, private parking (Skr90 per day), a swanky restaurant-bar and a nightclub that seriously kicks on Saturday night.
Eating & Drinking
Restaurang Smugglaren (213 22; Smugglaregränd 1; mains Skr190-255; from 6pm Mon-Sat) In a cosy wooden building tucked down an alley off Strandvägen, Smugglaren serves up fine hearty grub like nettle soup with quail eggs and wild boar fillet with mushroom risotto. Model ships, paraffin lamps and the odd elk head crank up the eccentricity.
Waterside Fiskaretorget is a hive of activity, studded with several restaurant-bars that have popular summer terraces. Harry’s (173 00) and the Brig (342 00) are on the square; both open noon to late daily (until 2am or 3am Friday and Saturday) in summer, shorter hours during winter. They offer low-fuss bar grub, plus à la carte options for finer dining.
Västervik’s fast-food speciality is French fries, mashed potato and shrimp salad (Skr25); look out for it at stands along the waterside. The Systembolaget is on Kvarngatan.
Getting There & Away
Long-distance buses stop