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Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [106]

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outside the train station, at the eastern edge of the town centre. Trains run between Västervik and Linköping up to 10 times daily (Skr147, 1¾ hours). Daily bus services run roughly every hour to 90 minutes to Vimmerby (Skr58, one hour), and every two hours to Oskarshamn (Skr67, one hour) and Kalmar (Skr115, 2¾ hours).

Svenska Buss runs to Stockholm, Kalmar, Karlskrona and Malmö four times per week. On Friday and Sunday, Swebus Express runs one bus each way on its Västervik–Vimmerby–Eksjö–Jönköping–Göteborg route.


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VIMMERBY

0492 / pop 15,600

Vimmerby is the birthplace of Astrid Lindgren, and home to one of Sweden’s favourite drawcards – a theme park based on the Pippi Longstocking books. Almost everything in town revolves around the strongest girl in the world – there’s little escape!

Facing Stora Torget is Vimmerby’s helpful tourist office (310 10; www.vimmerbyturistbyra.se; Rådhuset 1, Stångågatan 29; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat mid-May–early Jun; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat & Sun to late Jun & mid-Aug–late Aug; 9am-8pm late Jun-early Aug; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep–mid-May). If you don’t know whether Mr Nilsson is a horse or a monkey, Vimmerby Bokhandeln (123 10; Stora Torget 8) sells Pippi books in English.

Sights & Activities

Young children and Pippi Longstocking aficionados shouldn’t miss Astrid Lindgrens Värld (798 00; www.alv.se; mid-May–early Jun adult/3-12yr/family Skr165/125/520, early Jun-Aug Skr275/165/795; 10am-5pm mid-May–early Jun, to 6pm early Jun-Aug), on the northern edge of town. Actresses dressed as Pippi (complete with gravity-defying pigtails) sing and dance their way around the 100 buildings and settings from the books. Prices drop outside peak season, as there are fewer activities and theatre performances. Cars are charged a cheeky Skr30. The theme park is a 15-minute walk from central Vimmerby.

There’s a reasonably priced restaurant, a fast-food joint and coffee shops in the park. Dedicated fans can crash at the on-site camping ground (see below).

Nearby you’ll find Astrid Lindgrens Näs (76 94 00; www.astridlindgrensnas.se; Prästgården 24; combination ticket adult/6-14yr Skr80/35, tours adult/under 15yr Skr95/75; 10am-6pm May-Aug), a fascinating cultural centre set on the farm on which Lindgren grew up. There’s a permanent exhibition about the writer’s life, as well as temporary exhibitions inspired by Lindgren’s stories and legacy. The true highlight, however, is the 30-minute guided tour (daily summer, by appointment only rest of year) of Lindgren’s childhood home, which she faithfully restored in the 1960s. Guides bring the place to life with entertaining anecdotes, which you can ponder over a decent coffee and a book at the centre’s mod-chic cafe and gift shop. Call ahead for tour times.

When you’ve reached ginger-plait overload, wander down Storgatan for a fix of quaint 18th- and 19th-century wooden abodes. Another option is Museet Näktergalen (76 94 59; Sevedegatan 43; adult/child Skr20/10; noon-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat mid-Jun–mid-Aug), a petite 18th-century house with traditionally painted walls and ceilings.

Sleeping & Eating

There’s a camping ground (sites low/high season Skr155/295, 4-bed cabins from Skr495/995; mid-May–Aug) at the theme park, and lots of accommodation in town, much of it offering theme-park packages; ask the tourist office for details.

Vimmerby Vandrarhem (100 20; info@vimmerbyvandrarhem.nu; Järnvägsallén 2; r from Skr450; ) This cheerful hostel, based in a fine wooden building, is right near the train station. There are more expensive doubles available, with proper (nonbunk) beds, plus a garden with barbecue.

Vimmerby Stadshotell (121 00; www.vimmerbystadshotell.se; Stora Torget 9; s/d Skr1250/1450, summer Skr995/1250, weekends rest of year Skr695/795; ) You can’t miss this dashing pink building on the town square. Rooms aren’t as grand as the exterior implies, but they’re comfortable, with cable TV and minibars. Staff are friendly and there’s a decent in-house restaurant.

Konditori Brödstugan (104 21; Storgatan 42; meals

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