Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [113]
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Visby Strandby (20 33 00; www.gtsab.se; Rd 149, Snäck; sites high season Skr200, 4–6-bed cabins high seasonSkr6365; ) This recommended campsite lies 4km north of Visby and within walking distance of a small but popular sandy beach. Facilities include a small shop, a restaurant, a swimming pool and minigolf, with wi-fi available in the cabins. A bus service connects the site to Visby.
Wisby Jernvägshotellet (20 33 00; www.gtsab.se; Adelsgatan 9; 2-/4-bed r low season from Skr300/650, high season from Skr650/1095; year-round) Call ahead to book at this small, comfortable and very central hostel with spotless modern facilities.
Hamnhotellet (20 12 50; Färjeleden 3; s/d low season Skr560/600, hotel s/d high season Skr1095/1340, annexe s/d high season Skr785/995; ) Close to the ferry terminal, Hamnhotellet offers clean, comfortable rooms and a decent buffet breakfast. Opt for the cheaper annexe rooms, which are perfectly adequate with private bathroom and TV.
Gotlands Resor (20 12 60; info@gotlandsresor.se; Färjeleden 3) This travel agency, in Hamnhotellet, books stylish, fully equipped cottages (from Skr670 per night) in eastern and northern Gotland. Bookings for the summer should be made six months ahead. The agency also organises bike hire and rents camping equipment.
Hotel Villa Borgen (20 33 00; www.gtsab.se; Adelsgatan 11; s/d low season from Skr695/795, high season Skr1095/1395; ) This place has satisfying rooms set around a pretty, quiet courtyard, and an intimate breakfast room with French doors and stained glass for that boutique feeling.
Clarion Hotel Wisby (25 75 00; cl.wisby@choice.se; Strandgatan 6; s Skr995-1795, d Skr1420-2190; ) Top of the heap in Visby is the luxurious, landmark Wisby. Medieval vaulted ceilings and look-at-me candelabra contrast with funky contemporary furnishings. The gorgeous pool (complete with medieval pillar) occupies a converted merchant warehouse.
Värdshuset Lindgården (21 87 00; lindgarden.vardshuset@telia.com; Strandgatan 26; s/d mid-May–Sep Skr1195/1395, Oct–mid-May Skr750/950; ) This is a sound central option, with rooms set facing a soothing garden beside a popular restaurant. Dine outdoors and listen to music in the romantic courtyard in summer.
Eating & Drinking
There are more restaurants per capita in Visby than in any other Swedish city. Most are clustered around the old town squares, on Adelsgatan or at the harbour. Wherever you choose, do not pass up a chance to try saffranspankaka (a saffron pancake with berries and cream), the island’s speciality. You’ll find it at many cafes in Visby and around the island, usually for around Skr60.
Skafferiet (21 45 97; Adelsgatan 38; sandwiches from Skr35) Shamelessly charming, this casual lunch spot offers salubrious sandwiches and lip-smacking cakes and pastries.
Visby Crêperie & Logi (28 46 22; crêpes Skr39-126, 11am-11pm May-Aug, 11am-2pm & 4-11pm Tue-Sun Sep-Apr) Cheapish, cheerful and a hit with arty types, this lovable bolt hole serves scrumptious crêpes, from a moreish lamb, chevre, honey, rocket and almond combo to a wicked chocolate composition sexed-up with white chocolate chunks and ice cream.
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RAGNAR OLOFSSON & CAMILLA BÄCKMAN
Truffle harvesters Ragnar Olofsson and Camilla Bäckman are Gotland natives.
What sparked your passion for truffles? A newspaper article back in 2001 about an Uppsala University researcher, studying the island’s truffles. At the time, most Gotland locals had no idea what they were picking up, even though the island was covered in them. Ragnar quickly saw a business opportunity, thinking back to the 1940s when rape harvesting turned many Gotland farmers into instant millionaires. Many of the cashed-up farmers then bought yellow Mercedes, hence the high number of old yellow cars on Gotland’s roads today. Sadly, few locals shared Ragnar’s enthusiasm to begin with. Many who did have truffles growing on their property were concerned about going public and having complete strangers on their land