Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [114]
What changed people’s minds? A journalist found out that we were harvesting truffles and wrote about it. As the media interest grew, so did the public’s curiosity. We were even asked to examine the Swedish Royal Family’s Öland property for truffles; we found some, on the spot where they store their garbage. It took a couple of years to convince Swedish chefs, who traditionally imported French truffles. An increased interest in local produce helped change their minds and we’re now supplying some of Sweden’s top restaurants. We even sell to Copenhagen’s current dining hot spot. In short, the business potential became clearer. Much to the dismay of the French, our Burgundy truffles are exactly the same as theirs.
How has the truffle industry affected Gotland? Ironically, truffles often grow on culturally significant land, so in a roundabout way they’re helping to maintain and protect these heritage areas. Increasing demand has helped boost the local economy in the past four years, too. In 2007 between 100kg and 200kg of truffles were harvested here, with a value of Skr5 per gram (or Skr5000 per kilogram). We usually collect truffles from the farmers’ land ourselves, giving the farmers a share of the profit and turning otherwise unusable land into a money-maker for them. From a tourism perspective, Gotland is no longer just a summer destination, with growing numbers heading over for the truffle harvesting season in October and November.
So visitors can get involved in the harvest? Sure. We offer truffle safari packages, which include a truffle hunt with Lizzie and Java (our fluffy, truffle-sniffing Lagotto Romagnolo dogs). As you can see, we’ve come a long way since the days when locals thought we were harvesting chocolate.
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Vinäger (21 11 60; Hästgatan 3; sandwiches Skr49-68, salads Skr85-95; cafe 9am-9pm Jun-Aug, 9am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 10am-10pm Sun Sep-May, outdoor restaurant 9am-10pm summer only) Sporting a slick, ethno-chic interior, this hip cafe-bar puts the emphasis on fresh food, whether it’s a fetta and hummus wrap, lingonberry and cardamom muffins or sinfully good carrot cake. Directly across the street, Vinäger’s outdoor resto-bar cranks up the X-factor with a glam alfresco lounge, smooth cocktails and a dinner menu featuring Gotland’s only sushi option.
Effes (21 06 22; snacks & meals Skr70-145) Check out this pub-bar, just off Adelsgatan. Gloriously grungy and packed with characters (rockers and Goths love the place), Effes is built into the town wall and is a good place for a meal or drink. There’s an outdoor courtyard, pool tables and live music in summer.
Nunnan (21 28 94; meals Skr88-195; lunch & dinner summer, dinner only winter) A slice of Mykonos on Visby’s main square, Nunnan peddles good Greek grub, including decent vegetarian options, to an often eclectic crowd.
Bakfickan (27 18 07; mains Skr128-258; lunch & dinner) White tiled walls, merrily strung lights and boisterous crowds define this foodie-loved bolt-hole, where enlightened seafood gems might include Pollock with lobster risotto and wild garlic.
Bolaget (21 50 80; Stora Torget 16; mains Skr179-205; to 2am, closed Mon in winter) Take a defunct Systembolaget shop, chip the ‘System’ off the signage, and reinvent the space as a buzzing, bistro-inspired hot-spot. Top-notch seasonal flavours shine through in French-inspired dishes like duck with cherry sauce, cocoa beans and walnut-roasted potatoes. Staff are amiable and the summertime square-side bar seating is the place for serious people watching.
Donners Brunn (27 10 90; Donners plats; mains Skr195-285) If you’re craving a luxe feed, book a table at classic Donners Brun. Seasonal menus blend Swedish and global flavours (think grilled pata negra with chorizo, fennel slaw and deep-fried potatoes), while the alfresco summer bar is a fine spot to savour a cheeky John Holmes cocktail.
Hamnplan 5 (21 07 10; Hamnplan 5) Down by the water, Hamnplan 5 is an upmarket restaurant by day and a nightclub by night.
Other hang-outs around the harbour are a