Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [115]
A pair of neighbouring restaurant-bars with seemingly infinite levels of seating, from cellars to balconies, Gutekällaren (21 00 43) and Munkkällaren (227 14 00) are both home to nightclubs loved by summer crowds.
There’s a tiny ICA supermarket (Stora Torget) for self-caterers and a larger one on Söderväg, south of Söderport. Systembolaget (Österväg 3C) lies just outside the Österport city gate.
Entertainment
For rainy days, there’s the retro Röda Kvarn cinema (21 01 81; Mellangatan 17; tickets Skr85; from 5pm).
Shopping
Gotländsk Konst & Form (21 03 49; Wallérs plats 5; closed Sun) Cool local art and handicrafts are the focus at this artisans’ cooperative, with stock ranging from textiles and threads to ceramics, pottery, jewellery, glassware and painting. You can bag anything from mauve-hued local-wool cushions to loft-worthy bowls.
Kvinnfolki (21 00 51; Donners plats) This is another great place for idiosyncratic local handicrafts, whether it’s funky bags with a folk twist, ceramic colanders or downright quirky mugs.
Kränku (21 74 81; Sankt Hansplan 4) Tea fiends head here for local blends, which make for soothing, civilised souvenirs.
Getting There & Away
AIR
There are regular Skyways (0771-95 95 00; www.skyways.se) flights between Visby and Stockholm’s Arlanda and Bromma airports (up to three times a day for each airport). Flights between Stockholm and Visby generally cost from Skr517; click on the ‘Low fare calendar’ link on the website to check for the best prices.
The cheaper local airline is Gotlands Flyg (22 22 22; www.gotlandsflyg.se), with regular flights between Visby and Stockholm Bromma (one to 10 times daily). Prices start at Skr321 one way; book early for discounts, and inquire about stand-by fares (adult/under 26 years Skr621/321). Popular summer-only routes include Göteborg, Hamburg, Oslo and Helsingfors.
The island’s airport (26 31 00) is 4km northeast of Visby. No buses serve the airport directly; you’re best bet is to catch a taxi into/from town (around Skr145).
BOAT
Year-round car ferries between Visby and both Nynäshamn and Oskarshamn are operated by Destination Gotland (0771-22 33 00; www.destinationgotland.se). There are departures from Nynäshamn one to five times daily (about three hours). From Oskarshamn, there are one or two daily departures in either direction (three to four hours).
Regular one-way adult tickets for the ferry start at Skr180, but from mid-June to mid-August there is a far more complicated fare system; some overnight, evening and early-morning sailings in the middle of the week have cheaper fares.
Transporting a bicycle costs Skr45; a car usually starts at Skr298, although again in the peak summer season a tiered price system operates. Booking a nonrefundable ticket, three weeks in advance, will save you money. If you’re thinking of taking a car on the ferry between mid-June and mid-August, reserve a place well in advance.
Getting Around
There are over 1200km of roads in Gotland, typically running from village to village through picture-perfect landscapes. Cycling on the quiet roads is heavenly, and bikes can be hired from a number of places in Visby. The forested belt south and east of Visby is useful if you bring a tent and want to take advantage of the liberal camping laws.
Many travel agents and bike-rental places on the island also rent out camping equipment. In Visby, hire bikes from Skr75 per 24 hours at Gotlands Cykeluthyrning (21 41 33), behind the tourist office on the harbour. They also rent tents (Skr100/500 per day/week), or for Skr250 per day (Skr1250 per week) you can hire the ‘camping package’ – two bikes (or one tandem bike), a tent, a camping stove and two sleeping mats. Gotlands Resor (20 12 60; info@gotlandsresor.se; Färjeleden 3) offers similar packages.
A few companies and service stations offer car hire. In Visby, Avis (21 98 10; godman@gotlandica.se; Donners plats 2), rents small cars from Skr585/3240 per day/week.