Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [117]
Truffle-hunting safaris (www.gotlandstryffel.se) in the area are a unique way for foodies to discover more about this delicacy and local produce in general. Check the websites for package prices, which include a five-star dinner (featuring truffles, of course) and an accommodation option.
Sleeping & Eating
There’s a Konsum supermarket in Ljugarn, and some fine dining options in the area.
STF hostel Ljugarn (49 31 84; ljugarn@gotlandsturist.se; dm from Skr130; mid-May–Aug) This place has a fine spot at the eastern end of the Ljugarn village (down by the water).
Frejs Magasin (49 30 11; info@ljugarn.com; s/d Skr600/750, with private facilities Skr800/900) Sprinkled with antiques, this large, central, wooden-built pension is framed by Ljugarn’s green countryside. It also offers three- and four-bed rooms, and has apartments and cabins available by the week, if you’re in a group.
Bruna Dörren (49 32 89; Strandvägen 5; pizzas Skr60-95, mains Skr95-189) A casual restaurant and pizzeria, with a spacious outdoor courtyard and beachside location.
Smakrike Krog & Logi (49 33 71; www.smakrike.se; Claudelins väg 1; s/d/ste Skr1450/1995/3150, discounted to Skr750/1050/1795; restaurant mains Skr179-265; restaurant 5-11pm Jun-Aug, 5-9pm Fri & Sat only Sep-Dec & Mar-May; ) Just up the street, this fine-dining restaurant turns superlative local produce into revelations like halibut sashimi with blood orange and ginger vinaigrette. The restaurant’s affable owners also operate a stylish bed and breakfast upstairs, where original wooden beams and walls mix it with designer wallpaper, recess lighting and slick bathrooms (some with giant bathtubs).
Krakas Krog (530 62; mains Skr195-280; 4-10pm Wed-Sun early Jun-Aug) Kräklingbo is home to this intimate, fine-dining restaurant, co-owned by Ulrika Karlsson (one of Sweden’s top sommeliers and food critics). Here, seasonal island produce is transformed into sublime dishes like organic duck liver and goose blood pudding with apple and white raisins. The adventurous five-course tasting menu (Skr600) is great value and booking is a must.
Return to beginning of chapter
NORTHERN GOTLAND & FÅRÖ
It’s hard to imagine a better way to absorb the area than by cycling up to Fårö and following the bike trails around the beautiful, windswept little island. There’s an information centre (0498-22 40 22; 10am-5pm Jul & Aug, 10am-5pm Mon, Tue & Fri-Sun May & Jun) with internet access in Fårö town.
On your way, step back in time at the Bungemuseet (22 10 18; adult/child Skr70/free, adult Jul–mid-Aug Skr80; 11am-5pm mid-May–Aug, 11am-6.30pm Jul–mid-Aug), an open-air museum with 17th- to 19th-century houses, picture stones dating from 800 and a historic playground. It’s near the northeastern tip, about 1km south of where the ferry connects to Fårö. Across the road is a cute cafe with superlative saffron pancakes.
The grotto (27 30 50; adult/4-15yr Skr100/70; May–mid-Sep) south of Lummelunda is the island’s largest.
The temperature here is a cool 8°C, so rug up. The impressive raukar formations at nearby Lickershamn are up to 12m high; look out for Jungfru (signposted), with its haunting legend. Near the Jungfru trailhead at Lickershamn there’s a campground and friendly cafe/bar (noon-10pm mid-Jun–Aug, noon-2pm & 6-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-10pm Sat & Sun late May–mid-Jun) serving both local and Med-style dishes and tapas (from Skr80), as well as a hut selling smoked fish (11am to 7pm in summer).
The frequent ferry to Fårö is free for cars, passengers and cyclists. This island, once home to Ingmar Bergman, has magnificent raukar formations; watch the sunset at Langhammarshammaren if you can. At the island’s eastern tip, the rocks by Fårö lighthouse are laced with fossils. British troops who fought in the Crimean war are buried at Ryssnäs in the extreme south; obey signs posted along roads here, as this area is still used for military exercises.
Sleeping & Eating
There’s a good STF hostel in Lärbro (22 50 33; dm/s Skr190/290; reception 8-11am & 5-10pm), on Rd