Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [118]
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BERGMAN WEEK
The wild, mysterious landscape of Fårö is not easily forgotten, as anyone who has visited can testify. The tiny island just off the northern tip of Gotland particularly haunted Ingmar Bergman (14 July 1918–30 July 2007), the legendary Swedish director, who first visited Fårö in 1960 while scouting locations for Through a Glass Darkly. Bergman went on to shoot seven films on the island and is now buried there.
Since 2004 Fårö has been home to Bergman Week (www.bergmanveckan.se), a six-day celebration of Bergman’s life and work. The event consists of a film series, guest speakers (recently including fellow filmmaker Jan Troell), seminars and tours of film locations around the island. Event organisers hope to establish a Bergman Centre in the late director’s house and a vacant school building.
Jannike Åhlund, one of the people behind Bergman Week, has been a summer resident of Fårö for 10 years. Åhlund kindly spoke to us about the event, the director and the remote landscape that inspired him.
How long have you been involved in Bergman Week? This summer will be the sixth BW, and I’ve been involved in all, save the first, which was organised by longtime collaborator and Fårö resident Arne Carlsson. I added ideas, basically making the Bergman Week into a miniature festival, centred around Bergman topics in all shapes and forms, with the help of bright actors, guests and lecturers, and hopefully adding ever-new perspectives on Bergman’s work.
What are your favourite Bergman films? Autumn Sonata and Wild Strawberries.
Did you meet the man himself, and if so, what was he like? We met quite a bit. I interviewed him on four occasions, spoke to him on the phone regularly and also on Fårö, where I have a summer house, and during his participation in BW. What was he like? Curious, a quick intellect and a great sense of humour. Also childish, vengeful and a lover of gossip.
How will the festival change in the wake of Bergman’s death? Will it continue? Content-wise it will be the same high spirits. No memorials – that’s just the point with Bergman Week. It is not a statue we erect over our titan – we do it out of love and lust for his work. And yes, it will continue.
What do you like best about Fårö? The wild and untamed nature, the climate, the isolation.
What one thing should visitors to Sweden not miss? The archipelago, taking a boat ride in the archipelago.
Are there other sites one should add to the itinerary for a Bergman pilgrimage? Well, Dalarna is Bergman childhood (summer) territory. And you can of course see a play at Dramaten anytime and feel the presence of his demons…
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Nearby, the solitary island of Furillen is home to uberchic boutique hotel Fabriken Furillen (22 30 40; fabriken@furillen.com; d Skr1950-2800; ). Surreally set in a disused quarry, its 16 severely sleek rooms (think concrete walls and floors softened with luxe Swedish furnishings) are masterfully set in a soaring machinery storehouse.
The restaurant serves customised three-course meals for guests, while cashed-up hermits can rent Mats Theselius–designed cabins costing Skr5500 the first night, Skr500 the second, Skr50 the third and Skr5 the fourth.
There’s a beachside SVIF hostel (27 30 43; dm from Skr175; May-Sep) in Lummelunda, signposted from the main road; call ahead if you’ll be arriving after 5pm.
There’s an ICA supermarket (with an ATM) on the main street near the ferry terminal in Fårösund, and another on Fårö near the tourist office.
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GOTSKA SANDÖN NATIONAL PARK
Isolated Gotska Sandön (www.gotskasandon.se), with an area of 37 sq km, is an unusual island with lighthouses at its three corners, 30km of beaches, sand dunes, pine forest and a church. There’s a fantastic network of trails right around the island.
Camping (sites per person Skr70, beds in basic huts Skr140, cabins from Skr500) near the northern tip is possible; there are basic