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ÖSTERLEN

0414 / pop 19,400

Softly lit Österlen is an alluring area of waving wheat fields, tiny fishing villages and glorious apple orchards. Everything moves at a slow, seductive speed: cycling is the best way of fitting in with the tempo.

Simrishamn

Summer holidaymakers mill around Simri-shamn harbour, idly licking ice creams or waiting for the ferry to the Danish island of Bornholm. The quaint pastel-hued houses on Lilla Norregatan are worth a look, as is nearby Sankt Nikolai Kyrka. Engine-heads shouldn’t miss Österlens Motor & Teknikmuseum (0702-03 94 20; www.osterlensmotormuseum.se, in Swedish; Fabriksgatan 10; adult/7-14yr Skr75/50; noon-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun early Jun–mid-Oct), with its booty of classic cars, bikes and buggies.

The tourist office (81 98 00; www.turistbyra.simrishamn.se; Tullhusgatan 2; 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat, 11am-8pm Sun Jun-Aug; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-May) has information on the whole of Österlen. For internet access, try Konsol Butiken (178 70; Stora Rådmansgatan 7; per 20min Skr10; noon-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat & Sun), just off Lilla Norregatan. Banks and other services line Storgatan.

SLEEPING & EATING

Tobisviks Camping (41 27 78; sites/cabins from Skr120/600; ) By the beach 2km north of the town centre, this serviceable site neighbours a swimming pool.

STF Vandrarhem Simrishamn (105 40; info@simrishamnsvandrarhem.se; Christian Barnekowsgatan 10C; dm Skr200; Mar-Nov; ) Pick up a map before setting off – this place is well hidden, near the town hospital. It’s worth seeking out, however, offering spotless, colourful, homely lodgings with bathroom and TV in every room. Outside summer, bookings are essential.

Maritim Krog & Hotell (41 13 60; info@maritim.nu; Hamngatan 31; s/d from Skr900/1100) The old blue building by the harbour is a wonderful boutique hotel with stylish decor (ask for the superlative Herring Room, with balcony and sea views). It’s also home to a fantastic restaurant (lunch Skr80, mains Skr170 to Skr210) specialising in fish dishes.

Kamskogs Krog (143 48; www.kamskogskrog.se; Storgatan 3; lunch Skr85, dinner mains Skr145-220; noon-10pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours Sep-Jun) Local ingredients and skilful preparation define this krog (restaurant), with dishes like crème brûlée with apple and nut salad in Kivik Calvados. The outdoor seats are perfect for nosey noshing.

GETTING THERE & AROUND

BornholmExpress (107 00; www.bornholmexpress.dk; adult/6-14yr return Skr300/150) runs a ferry service between Simrishamn and Allinge (on the Danish island of Bornholm) from mid-June to mid-August.

SkåneExpressen bus 3 runs roughly every hour on weekdays (less frequently on weekends) from Simrishamn train station to Kristianstad via Kivik (not stopping at the Stenshuvud National Park access road). Bus 5 to Lund runs up to 11 times on weekdays (infrequently on weekends). There’s a direct bus to Ystad via Löderup three to nine times daily.

Local trains run up to 12 times daily from Simrishamn to Ystad (Skr39, 40 minutes), with connections from Ystad to Malmö and Lund.

Call Taxi Österlen (177 77) for a taxi. For bike hire, try Österlens Cykel & Motor (177 44; Stenbocksgatan; per day from Skr70; Mon-Sat), in the godsmagasinet (goods depot) at the train station.

Glimmingehus & Skillinge

The striking, five-storey Glimmingehus (Glimminge castle; 186 20; adult/under 19yr Skr60/free; 10am-6pm Jun–late Aug, 11am-4pm mid-Apr–May & late Aug–Sep, 11am-4pm Thu-Sun Oct), about 5km inland, has scarcely been tinkered with since its construction in the early 1500s, making it one of the best-preserved medieval castles around. Features include an all-encompassing moat and 11 resident ghosts! Guided tours in English are at 2pm daily from July to mid-September (at 2pm weekends from mid-April to late June and from mid-September to late October). In summer, there’s a cafe and a program of medieval events and activities: contact the castle for details.