Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [138]
Sjöbacka (301 66; info@sjobacka.nu; d from Skr700), a B&B 700m west of Skillinge, the closest settlement to the castle, occupies a super-cosy Scanian farmhouse complete with fireplace, antiques and heaving bookshelves. Skillinge is a reasonably active fishing village with a couple of restaurants and a fish smokehouse
Bus 322 runs three times daily between Skillinge and Ystad from mid-June to mid-August only.
Kivik
Rosy apples and burial cists make for strange bedfellows in sleepy, soothing Kivik (north of Simrishamn).
Believed to be a site of ancient human sacrifice, Kiviksgraven (Kungagraven; 703 37; adult/under 16yr Skr20/free; 10am-6pm mid-May–Aug) is Sweden’s largest Bronze Age grave, dating from around 1000 BC. It’s an extraordinary shield-like cairn, about 75m in diameter, which once contained a burial cist and eight engraved slabs. What you see inside are replicas; the tomb was looted in the 18th century. The on-site cafe hires informative audioguides (Skr15).
Nearby, Kiviks Musteri (719 00; www.kiviksmusteri.se; Mar-Dec) is an apple orchard open to the public. There you can visit Äpplets Hus (adult/under 12yr Skr50/free; late Mar-Nov), a museum devoted to the myths, history, cultivation and artistry of apples. Buy apple juice, cider and apple brandy from the well-stocked shop or sample the fairly apple-free menu at the restaurant. Kiviks Musteri is a few (signposted) kilometres out of town.
In Kivik, STF Vandrarhem Hanöbris (700 50; www.osterlen.tv/vandrarhem; Eliselundsvägen 6; dm from Skr200; Apr-Oct) offers clean rooms in a 19th-century dancehall given an unfortunate modernist makeover.
Kivik Strand Logi & Café (711 95; info@kivikstrand.se; Tittutvägen; hostel/hotel d Skr740/1110, discounted to Skr660/1100; Easter-Oct; ), down by the beach in a meticulously restored 19th-century schoolhouse, is a superlative hostel-B&B combo that’s more chic boutique than backpacker bolt hole (think Gustavian-inspired interiors, rustic floorboards and a savvy sprinkling of antiques). The communal kitchen is seriously slick, and the obscenely cute cafe serves exceptional espresso. Book ahead.
For bus information Click here.
Stenshuvud National Park
Just south of Kivik, this enchanting national park (www.stenshuvud.se) features lush woodland, marshes, sandy beaches and a high headland. Among its more unusual residents are orchids, dormice and tree frogs. Several superb walks in the area include the hike up to a 6th-century ruined hill fort. The long-distance path Skåneleden (www.skaneleden.org) also runs through the park, along the coast; the best section is from Vik to Kivik (two or three hours).
The Naturum (visitor centre; 708 82; 11am-6pm Jun–mid-Aug, 11am-4pm mid-Aug–mid-Dec & mid-Jan–May) is 2.5km from the main road. Rangers lead 1½-hour guided tours of the park from there at 2pm daily, as well as at 10am Monday to Friday from July to mid-August (Sundays only mid-April to mid-June and September to mid-October). Call ahead to arrange an English-language tour.
Pretty Kaffestugan Annorlunda (242 86), on the road to the Naturum, serves meals and snacks daily from mid-May to August.
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KRISTIANSTAD
044 / pop 77,250
Scruffy undertones aside, Kristianstad (kri-shan-sta) is worth a wander for its exquisite cathedral, quirky street sculptures and sprinkling of handsome 18th- and 19th-century buildings (among the 1970s dross).
Known as the most Danish town in Sweden, its construction was ordered by the Danish king Christian IV in 1614. Its rectangular street network still follows the first town plan, although the original walls and bastions have long gone. Both a major transport hub and gateway to Skåne’s southern coast, it’s also the region’s administrative and political centre.
Information
Lilla Torg has banks and ATMs.
Library (Föreningsgatan 4; 10am-7pm Mon-Thu year-round, plus 10am-6pm Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & 10am-2pm Sun Jun-Aug) Free internet access.
Tourist office (13 53 35; www.kristianstad.se; Stora Torg; 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 10am-5pm