Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [139]
Sights & Activities
One of the finest Renaissance churches in Scandinavia, Trefaldighetskyrkan (Västra Storgatan 6; 8am-4pm) was completed in 1628 when Skåne was still under Danish control. The light-filled interior still has many of its original fittings, including wonderfully carved oak pews and an ornate marble and alabaster pulpit.
Riverside Tivoliparken is great for a summertime evening stroll or a waffle or two at the much-loved cafe. For a walking tour round 23 of the town’s stately buildings (including the Renaissance-style town hall and the restored rampart Bastinonen Konungen), pick up the free English brochure Kristianstad at Your Own Pace from the tourist office.
The Regionmuseet & Konsthall (13 52 45; Stora Torg; admission free; 11am-5pm Jun-Aug, noon-5pm Tue-Sun Sep-May) was originally intended as a palace, but the building ended up being used as an arsenal. It now houses local history exhibits and art, handicrafts and silverware displays. The Café Miro here serves great organic lunches, with herbs and flowers picked from the owner’s garden.
Swedish film-making began in Kristianstad, so it’s appropriate that Filmmuseet (13 57 29; Östra Storgatan 53; admission free; 1-6pm Thu-Sat late Jun–mid-Aug, noon-5pm Sun mid-Aug–mid-Jun), Sweden’s only film museum, is based here.
Naturens Bästa (61 98 40; www.flodbaten.se) run two-hour boat trips (adult/child/family Skr100/60/260) into Kristianstad’s unique wetland area, three times daily between May and early September. However, there are several weeks when the boats don’t run: contact the company or the tourist office to check departures and book tickets.
Festivals & Events
Held annually in July, Kristianstadsdagarna (www.kristianstadsdagarna.nu, in Swedish) is a week-long festival with music, dance, exhibitions and foodie events, mostly held in Tivoliparken.
Sleeping & Eating
Budget accommodation is limited in town.
Bäckaskogs Slott (530 20; info@backaskogslott.se; Barumsvägen 255, Kiaby; cottage s/d incl breakfast Skr400/600, castle Skr1150/1550, discounted to Skr1000/1400; ) This dreamy castle sits between two lakes 15km northeast of Kristianstad. Built as a monastery in the mid-13th century, it’s a stunning spot, with different tiers of accommodation available in various wings and outhouses, and a well-priced restaurant. Bus 558 (Skr20, 20 minutes) runs hourly on weekdays between Kiaby and Kristianstad Resecentrum (less frequently on weekends).
First Hotel Christian IV (12 63 00; www.firsthotels.com; Västra Boulevarden 15; s Skr648-1348, d Skr848-1548; ) While we adore the parquet floors and high ceilings, some rooms at Kristianstad’s finest hotel are due for a makeover (think peeling wallpaper and frosted shower screens). The beautiful turn-of-the-century building was once a bank and one of the vaults now contains a wine cellar. (Just as well there’s an in-house restaurant!)
Best Western Hotel Anno 1937 (12 61 50; info@hotelanno.se; Västra Storgatan 17; s/d Skr1095/1295, discounted to Skr695/895; ) A rustic beam here, a 17th-century wall there: history pops up all over the place at this friendly hotel. Opposite the cathedral, its pale-toned rooms are simple yet tastefully designed with up-to-date touches like flatscreen TVs. There’s a sauna, as well as free bike hire and wi-fi.
Café Fenix (20 90 80; Östra Storgatan 69; sandwiches Skr40-70; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) A hit with local hipsters, this sleek new cafe is best for its epic sandwiches and scrumptious pastries, cakes and muffins. Grab a pavement table, slip on some shades, and eye up the passing talent.
Garvaregården (21 35 00; Tivoligatan 9; lunch Skr60, dinner mains Skr90-240) A half-timbered facade, crooked 17th-century gallery and flower-fringed terrace crank up the charm, while the house speciality lobster-stuffed steak cranks up the luxe factor. Simpler fare includes decent pasta dishes.
Kippers Källare (10 62 00; Östra Storgatan 9; mains Skr180-260; Tue-Sat) Listed in the White Guide (Sweden’s foodie bible) and sporting a 17th-century arched