Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [141]
Forex (042 24 47 00; www.forex.se; Level 1 Knutpunkten, Kungstorget 8; 7am-9pm Mon-Sun) Foreign exchange office.
Library (Stadsbibliotek; 042-10 69 00; Stadsparken; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri & 11am-4pm Sat, also noon-4pm Sun Oct-Mar) Free internet access (bring ID).
Tourist office (10 43 50; www.helsingborg.se; Rådhuset, Stortorget; 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & 10am-3pm Sun mid-Jun–Aug, 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat Sep–mid-Jun)
Sights
TOWN CENTRE
Dramatic steps and archways lead up from Stortorget to the square tower Kärnan (10 59 91; adult/under 16yr Skr20/10; 10am-6pm Jun-Aug, closed Mon Sep-May), all that remains of the medieval castle. The castle became Swedish property during the 17th-century Danish-Swedish War, and was mostly demolished once the fighting stopped. The tower was restored from dereliction in 1894, and the view from the top (34m) is regal indeed.
Just north of the transport terminals, the crisp and white Dunkers Kulturhus (10 74 00; www.dunkerskulturhus.se; Kungsgatan 11; exhibitions adult/under 18yr Skr70/free; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 8pm Thu) houses an interesting town museum and temporary art exhibitions (admission includes entry to both), plus a concert hall, urbane restaurant and cafe (opposite), and design-savvy gift shop. The building’s creator, Danish architect Kim Utzon, is the son of Sydney Opera House architect Jørn Utzon.
From here, saunter along Norra Hamnen (the North Harbour) where sleek apartments, restaurants and bars meet docked yachts and preened locals in one rather successful harbour-redevelopment project.
In the old town, the 15th-century Gothic brick Mariakyrkan (37 28 30; Mariatorget; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) has a magnificent interior, including a triptych dating from 1450 and an ornate Renaissance pulpit. The mighty Rådhuset (town hall; Stortorget) was completed in 1897 in neo-Gothic style and contains stained-glass scenes illustrating Helsingborg’s history.
Small and specialist museums (about the fire brigade, medical history, sport, schools and military defence) dot the town: contact the tourist office for details.
FREDRIKSDAL & SOFIERO
Just 2km northeast of the centre, the Fredriksdal area is well worth a visit. Take bus 1 or 7 to the Zoégas bus stop.
One of Sweden’s best open-air museums, Fredriksdals Friluftsmuseum (10 45 00; www.fredriksdal.helsingborg.se; adult/under 18yr May-Sep Skr70/free, Apr & Oct Skr30/free, Nov-Mar free; 10am-7pm Jun-Aug, 10am-5pm May & Sep, 11am-4pm Oct-Apr) is based around an 18th-century manor house, with a street of old houses, a children’s farm, a graphics museum and blissfully leafy grounds. Local wildflowers grace the beautiful botanic gardens, and there’s a wonderful summer program of activities and performances in the French baroque open-air theatre. The museum entrance, located just off Hävertgatan, is an easy 250m walk south of the Zoégas bus stop on Ängelsholmsvägen.
Tropikariet (13 00 35; Hävertgatan 21; adult/4-12yr Skr80/40; 11am-5pm Tue-Sun, last entry at 4pm) is a semi-zoo, with reptile house, aquarium and exotic furry critters housed in faux natural habitats. It’s just opposite the entrance to Fredriksdals museum.
About 5km north of the town centre, Sofiero (13 74 00; www.sofiero.helsingborg.se; Sofierovägen; adult/7-18yr Skr80/20; park 11am-6pm mid-Apr–Sep, palace & orangery 11am-5pm mid-Apr–Sep) is an impressive former royal summer residence and park with wonderful rhododendrons (best seen in full bloom in May and June) and top-notch summer concerts. Bus 219 runs out there.
Sleeping
CAMPING, HOSTELS & PRIVATE ROOMS
Råå Vallar Camping (18 26 00; raavallar@nordiccamping.se; Kustgatan; sites Skr170-250, cabins Skr650-790; ) About 5km south of the city centre, by Öresund, this is a huge, well-equipped camping ground, with a shop, cafe and sandy beach. Take bus 1 from the