Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [142]
Helsingborgs Vandrarhem (14 58 50; info@hbgturist.com; Järnvägsgatan 39; dm from Skr195) Despite the rather anonymous vibe, Helsingborg’s only central hostel offers clean, comfortable rooms about 200m from Knutpunkten. Reception opens between 3pm and 6pm.
Villa Thalassa (38 06 60; www.villathalassa.com; Dag Hammarskjöldsväg; dm from Skr200, 2-/4-bed r with private bathroom s/d Skr600/800; ) This SVIF option is a lovely early-20th-century villa situated in beautiful gardens. Hostel accommodation is in huts, but the hotel-standard rooms (with or without private bathroom) are a cut above. The villa lies 3km north of central Helsingborg in the Pålsjö area. Bus 219 stops 500m short, at the Pålsjöbaden bus stop.
HOTELS
Elite Hotel Mollberg (37 37 00; mollberg.helsingborg@elite.se; Stortorget 18; s Skr600-900, d Skr900-1450; ) The main square is dominated by this flouncy 19th-century building. An understated elegance underpins the classic rooms, although the 1980s-era bathrooms could do with a revamp. The restaurant here is one of the best in town.
Hotell Linnéa (37 24 00; www.hotell-linnea.se; Prästgatan 4; s Skr680-1195, discounted to Skr625-775, d Skr1245-1445, discounted to Skr895-995) Charming, central Linnéa boasts wonderful management and cosy, personalised rooms with wooden floors, antique furniture and loads of character. It also does a decent Danish breakfast.
Elite Hotel Marina Plaza (19 21 00; reservations.marinaplaza@elite.se; Kungstorget 6; s Skr750-1950, d Skr950-2150; ) The Mollberg’s sister establishment has modern, luxurious rooms right by the harbour (some with sea views), a number of restaurants and bars, and a sauna and gym.
Hotel Maria (24 99 40; www.hotelmaria.se; Mariagatan 8A; s/d from Skr950/1250, discounted to Skr800/950; ) Tucked away behind Olsons Skafferi (right), Hotel Maria is utterly inspired, with each room flaunting a different historical style. Themes include National Romantic, art deco and ’70s disco. Beds are divinely comfy, the staff friendly and there’s a tapas bar downstairs. The hotel closes during the Christmas–New Year break.
Hotell Viking (14 44 20; hotell.viking@helsingborg.se; Fågelsångsgatan 1; s/d from Skr995/1475, discounted to Skr695/1025; ) The savvy, idiosyncratic rooms at this sterling number are constantly updated. Styles range from sexy modern to classically romantic, and each features a locally made teddy bear to cuddle (and adopt if you bond). Room 15 (Skr1675) remains the flashiest, with its own computer, leather recliners and whirlpool massage bath.
Eating
Helsingborg boasts an appetising selection of restaurants and cafes, although a fair few close on Sundays.
Ebbas Fik (28 14 40; Bruksgatan 20; cakes Skr15-35, sandwiches Skr22-75; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat) It’s still 1955 at this kitsch-tastic retro cafe, complete with jukebox, retro petrol pump and hamburgers made to Elvis’ recipe. The extensive cafe menu also includes (huge) sandwiches, baked potatoes and crazy cakes and buns.
Koppi (13 30 33; Norra Storgatan 16; sandwiches/salads Skr60/70; Mon-Sat) This hip cafe-microroastery is your best bet for top-notch coffee. The savvy young owners sell their own roasted beans, alongside scrumptious edibles like fresh salads and gourmet ciabatta.
Vegeriet (24 03 03; Järnvägsgatan 25; lunch around Skr75; Mon-Sat) Vegetarians adore this appealing cafe-restaurant for tasty, flesh-free versions of quiche, lasagne, tortilla and stir-fry, and vegans aren’t forgotten either. The place usually shuts for about a month during summer.
Olsons Skafferi (14 07 80; Mariagatan 6; lunch Skr75-90, dinner mains Skr130-235; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Olsons is a super little spot, with alfresco seating on the pedestrian square right in front of Mariakyrkan. It doubles as an Italian deli and cafe, with rustic good looks, spangly chandeliers and pasta that would make Bologna proud. The dinner menu offers more elaborate Mediterranean flavours.
Dunker Bar & Matsalar (32 29 96; Kungsgatan 11; lunch Skr90-145, restaurant mains Skr170-245) At the Kulturhus (opposite), svelte,