Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [143]
Pålsjö Krog (14 97 30; Drottninggatan 151; mains Skr160-290; from 11.30am Mon-Sat, from 1pm Sun) Near Villa Thalassa, this is a great old seaside inn revamped into an elegant nosh spot. There’s a fabulous veranda and outdoor seating, plus tasty, bistro-style dishes like blue mussel soup.
Gastro (24 34 70; Södra Storgatan 11-13; mains Skr195-295; dinner Mon-Sat) While we’re not sold on the name, the dishes at this sharp, stylish award-winner will leave you smitten. On leather banquettes, under low-slung lamps, diners swoon over haute gems such as cured Norwegian cod with horseradish, lobster-steamed leeks and crispy cauliflower.
For quick snacks, try the Knutpunkten complex. The ICA Supermarket (Drottninggatan 48) is the best centrally located supermarket.
Drinking
There are several good pubs and bars around town, including Harrys (13 91 91; Järnvägsgatan 7) and the Bishops Arms (37 37 77; Södra Storgatan 2), both English-style pubs with a range of beers and comprehensive food menus.
There’s a Systembolaget on Södergatan.
Entertainment
Helsingborgs Stadsteater (10 68 10; Karl Johans gata 1) has regular drama performances, and its neighbour, the Konserthus (10 43 50; Drottning-gatan 19), regularly plays host to Helsingborg’s Symphony Orchestra. Information and tickets are available from the tourist office.
The Tivoli (18 71 71; Kungsgatan 1) is an enduring nightclub with a younger crowd and occasional live music. Popular restaurant-lounge hybrid Tempel (32 70 20; www.tempel.dj; Bruksgatan 2; from 6pm Tue-Sat) dishes out decent club nights on Fridays and Saturdays.
Biograf Röda Kvarn (14 50 90; Karlsgatan 7) is Helsingborg’s oldest cinema. It shows mostly independent films, but closes from mid-June to mid-August. For mainstream efforts, try Filmstaden (21 07 47; Södergatan 19).
Getting There & Away
The main transport hub is the waterfront Knutpunkten complex.
BOAT
Knutpunkten is the terminal for the frequent Scandlines (18 61 00; www.scandlines.se) car ferry to Helsingør (one way Skr28, car plus nine people Skr335, free with rail passes). Across the inner harbour, ACE Link (38 58 80) has a terminal with a passenger-only ferry to Helsingør every 20 minutes in summer and every 30 minutes the rest of the year (one way Skr44, free with rail passes). There’s also a frequent HH-Ferries (19 80 00; www.hhferries.se) service to Helsingør (adult Skr24, car plus nine people Skr300, rail passes not valid).
BUS
The bus terminal is at ground level in Knutpunkten. Regional Skånetrafiken buses dominate (see respective destinations for details), but long-distance services are offered by Swebus Express (0771-21 82 18; www.swebusexpress.com), Svenska Buss (0771-67 67 67; www.svenskabuss.se) and Säfflebussen (0771-15 15 15; www.safflebussen.se).
All three companies run north to Göteborg (Swebus Express and Säfflebussen services continue to Oslo), and south to Malmö. Swebus Express and Säfflebussen also operate services northeast to Stockholm via Karlstad. Fares to Stockholm cost around Skr500 (7½ hours), to Göteborg Skr250 (three hours), and to Oslo Skr300 (seven hours).
TRAIN
Underground platforms in Knutpunkten serve SJ, Pågatågen and Öresundståg trains, which depart daily for Stockholm (Skr630, five to seven hours), Göteborg (Skr230, 2½ to three hours) and nearby towns including Lund (Skr75), Malmö (Skr87), Kristianstad (Skr87) and Halmstad (Skr107), as well as Copenhagen (Denmark) and Oslo (Norway).
Getting Around
Town buses cost Skr16 and run from Rådhuset (town hall). Bike hire (per 24hr/week Skr120/600) is available at Travelshop, located at the bus station at Knutpunkten. Contact Taxi Helsingborg (18 02 00) for cabs, and Statoil (15 10 80; Garnisonsgatan 2) for car hire.
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KULLA PENINSULA
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A seductive brew of golden light, artisan studios and