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GETTING THERE & AWAY

Bus 220 run at least hourly from Helsingborg to Höganäs (Skr39, 40 minutes). From there, bus 222 runs every hour or two to Mölle (Skr27, 20 minutes), while bus 223 runs to Arild (Skr27, 20 minutes).

Höganäs

Gateway to the Kulla Peninsula, the coal-mining town of Höganäs (21km north of Helsingborg) deceives visitors with its plain-Jane appearance. Yet, not only is it a famous pottery centre but it harbours a few cultural gems.

The small tourist office (33 77 74; turistbyran@hoganas.se; Centralgatan 20; noon-4pm Mon-Fri Oct-Mar, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri Apr–mid-Jun & mid-Aug–Sep, 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri mid–late Jun & early–mid-Aug, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat late Jun-early Aug) is a good source of information on the entire Kullabygden area. Pick up the free guide to Höganäs’ impressive posse of public art, liberally sprinkled around town. Two of the most entertaining works are a family of pigs on Storgatan and a levitating dog on Köpmansgatan.

More art beckons at Höganäs Museum & Konsthall (34 13 35; www.hoganasmuseum.se, in Swedish; Polhemsgatan 1; adult/child Skr50/10; 1-5pm Tue-Sun Feb–late Dec), whose highlight is a brilliant collection of witty, exquisitely humane sculptures from home-grown artist Åke Holm. The venue also houses Höganäs’ most famous four-legged local, Bob the puma (see boxed text).

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TIA LINDSTRÖM RÅBERG

Now based in Stockholm, school teacher Tia’s fondest memories are of her native Kulla Peninsula.

What does the Kulla Peninsula mean to you? It’s my spiritual home. The place is filled with so many memories of my childhood and that of my children. I now live in Stockholm but come down here every summer with my youngest daughter, Tove. It’s food for the soul and our place of refuge.

What do you miss most about Skåne? The smell of salt and seaweed, the open sea. There are no islands between the shore and the horizon in Skåne, giving the coast a sense of freedom lacking in the Stockholm archipelago. Then there’s the unique Scanian architecture and the beautiful beech forests.

An underrated local attraction? The town of Höganäs (opposite). It’s not a smashing place to look at, but it’s filled with whimsical sculptures from some famous names, including British artist Antony Gormley. Krapperups Slott (below) is also wonderful. Although the original manor was from the 14th century, the current one dates back to 1570. The gardens are stunning, the cafe bakes wonderful bread and the summer music concerts are impressive.

A definite must see? The Kullaberg Nature Reserve (below). I call the road leading up to it ‘The Italian Way’ because it reminds me a bit of the Amalfi Coast. A lovely cove for a swim here is Josefinelust: follow the signs from the main road. If you have time, don’t miss Lars Vilks’ famous sculpture Nimis (below). If you’re interested in art and ceramics, a good time to visit the Kulla Peninsula is around Easter for the week-long Konstrundan (www.konstrundan.nu), when local artists open up their studios. Ask at the Höganäs tourist office (opposite) for details.

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Höganäs Saltglaserat (21 65 40; www.hoganassaltglaserat.se, in Swedish; Bruksgatan 36B; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sep–mid-Jun, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun) is Sweden’s most famous pottery factory, established in 1835. Its trademark brown salt-glazed pottery is a veritable national icon and its famous Höganäskrus (little jug) is mentioned in the opening line of August Strindberg’s novel Natives of Hemsö. Watch the potters spin their wares (daily in July and August, weekdays at other times) and step inside the original, 170-year old kilns.

Seven kilometres further north on Rd 111, Krapperups Slott (34 41 90; info@krapperup.se; Krapperups Kyrkovägen 13; admission free, gallery Skr30; garden year-round; cafe 11am-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun mid-Aug–mid-Jun, closed Jan; gallery/museum 1-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug, 1-5pm Sat & Sun Easter–mid-Jun & 2 weekends in Dec) is one of Sweden’s oldest estates