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off-shore Kungsholms Fort, with its curious circular harbour, built in 1680 to defend the town. Four-hour, guided boat tours (adult/12-18yr Skr180/80; 10am mid-Jun–Aug) to the fort depart from Fisktorget; book at the tourist office or Marinmuseum (bring ID). In July there’s also a three-hour tour departing from Marinmuseum. Another option is the boat operated by Skärgårdstrafiken (783 30), which runs from Fisktorget and circles the fort five times daily from mid-June to mid-August (adult/child Skr80/40); inform the tourist office of your visit in advance if you choose this second option.

Bristling with cannons, the tower Drott-ningskärs Kastell on the island of Aspö was described by Admiral Nelson of the British Royal Navy as ‘impregnable’. You can visit it on a Skärgårdstrafiken boat (return adult Skr40-130, child Skr20-70; Jun-Aug), departing from Fisktorget.

MUSEUMS

The striking Marinmuseum (359 30 02; Stum-holmen; adult/under 19yr Skr60/free; 10am-6pm Jun-Aug, 11am-5pm Tue-Sun Sep-May) is the national naval museum. Dive in for reconstructions of a battle deck in wartime, a hall full of fantastic figureheads, piles of model boats, and even some of the real thing – such as a minesweeper, a sailing ship and the Swedish navy’s debut submarine. Temporary exhibitions move beyond the marine (a recent show focused on contemporary Polish art) and the savvy cafe (lunch Skr90) boasts generous servings and waterside decking for a satisfying recharge.

The evocative Blekinge Museum (30 49 60; Fisktorget 2; admission free; 10am-6pm Jun-Aug, 11am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 7pm Wed Sep-May) explores the local fishing, boat-building and quarrying trades. The most captivating part is Grevagården, an impressively preserved 18th-century abode crammed with thousands of vintage objects, from fans and fashion to bizarre wax models of syphilis-plagued faces. Topping it off is a petite baroque garden and a pleasant cafe.

Museum Leonardo da Vinci Ideale (255 73; Drottninggatan 28; admission Skr20) showcases a private collection of original art. Call ahead to visit.

OTHER SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Karlskrona’s monumental square, Stortorget, was planned to rival Europe’s best. Alas, the funds ran out, resulting in a somewhat odd mix of grand architectural gestures and humble stand-ins. Dominating the square are the courthouse, along with the baroque church Fredrikskyrkan (11am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm Sat) and Trefaldighetskyrkan (Trinity Church; 11am- 4pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2pm Sat), inspired by Rome’s Pantheon.

Sweden’s oldest wooden church is the stocky Amiralitetskyrkan (103 56; Vallgatan), whose gorgeous pastel interior is worth a peek. Outside, the wooden statue Old Rosenbom raises his hat to charitable visitors.

Pick a sunny summer afternoon for a tour around Karlskrona’s archipelago, made up of almost 1000 islands. A three-hour tour costs Skr130/70 per adult/child. Contact the Skärgårdstrafiken office at Fisktorget or log onto www.affarsverken.se for timetables and information.

Enquire at the tourist office about three-hour guided tours (adult/12-18yr Skr225/80; Sat May–mid-Sep) of the city, which consist of a one-hour walk followed by a ferry trip to Godnatt Fort, a curious 19th-century fortress-cum-lighthouse that appears to emerge straight out of the water. Another option is to pick up the free Object 560 brochure, which maps out a walking tour of architectural and historical highlights in town.

Sleeping

STF Vandrarhem Trossö Karlskrona (100 20; www.karlskronavandrarhem.se; Drottninggatan 39; dm/s/d from Skr140/245/320) Modern, clean and friendly, this hostel has a laundry, TV room and backyard for kids to play in; parking on the opposite side of the street is free.

Dragsö Camping (153 54; info@dragsocamping.nu; Dragsövägen; sites from Skr190, 2-bed cabins Skr750-850, d Skr320; Apr–mid-Oct) This large, good-looking campsite, 2.5km northwest of town, is situated on a scenic bay. Facilities include boat and bicycle hire, as well as a Karlskrona-themed minigolf course. Bus 7 stops about a kilometre short of the camping ground.

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