Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [148]
Clarion Collection Hotel Carlscrona (36 15 00; cc.carlscrona@choice.se; Skeppsbrokajen; s Skr890-1900, d Skr1110-2120; ) Handy for the train station, this sassy chain hotel combines original rustic beams and slinky furniture in the bar, and navy blues, greys and handsome wooden furnishings in its stately rooms. Staff are very helpful.
Hotell Aston (194 70; www.hotellaston.se; Land-brogatan 1; s/d incl breakfast Skr1045/1195, discounted to Skr695/895; ) This 3rd-floor place is a smart, central option. The spacious rooms sport neutral tones, marine-themed photography and art, as well as simple, modern furnishings. There’s a sauna and, if you’re lucky, you’ll get waffles for breakfast.
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ISLAND GETAWAY
STF Turiststation Tjärö (600 63; tjaro@stfturist.se; dm from Skr300; May–late Sep; ) lies on an idyllic island nature reserve, off the coast of Blekinge between Karlshamn and Karlskrona, with walking trails and peaceful beaches. The hostel is highly recommended; breakfast is available and there’s a cafe and fully licensed restaurant, plus boat and canoe hire. Boats run from the little harbour town of Järnavik up to eight times daily (return Skr100) – it’s a good idea to call the hostel to confirm sailing times.
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Eating & Drinking
Glassiärens Glassbar (170 05; Stortorget 4; May-Sep) The queues at this legendary ice-cream peddler are matched by the mammoth serves. Piled high in a heavenly waffle cone, the two-flavour option (Skr30) is a virtual meal.
Lennarths Konditori (31 03 32; Norra Kungsgatan 3; Mon-Sat) We dig the tubular retro ceiling almost as much as we dig the calorific treats at this old-school bakery; try the delectable munk (think doughnut meets apple strudel).
Nivå (103 71; Norra Kungsgatan 3; light meals Skr40-90, grill Skr150-325; Mon-Sat) Just off Stortorget, this slinky steakhouse has an excellent menu of light, well-priced dishes (nachos, burgers, salads), plus heartier meals from the grill. It’s also a popular evening bar; its doors stay open until at least 1am.
Hamnkrogen (803 36; Skeppsbrokajen 18; lunch from Skr55, mains Skr90-160) Right on the guest harbour, easy-going Hamnkrogen keeps punters chuffed with pizzas, steaks and grills. If you fancy something spicier, opt for the great tandoori dishes, baltis and biryanis, cooked by the restaurant’s Indian chef.
Café Tre G (31 03 33; Landbrogatan 9; meals around Skr65; 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) Run by the team from Lennarths Konditori, this cafe is a hit with everyone from prim pensioners to indie types. Fill up on anything from baked potatoes, quiche and pasta salads to perfect pralines, pastries and muffins.
Montmartre (31 18 33; Ronnebygatan 18; pizza Skr65-80, mains Skr80-190) Next door to the Museum Leonardo da Vinci Ideale, the atmospheric Montmartre evokes a French bistro with its wine-red drapes, tasselled lampshades and oil paintings. The menu is a worldlier affair, with pizzas, Swedish favourites and zestier fusion numbers such as grilled tuna with wasabi, lime and chilli.
Två Rum & Kök (104 22; Södra Smedjegatan 3; fondue Skr240, mains Skr200-260; Mon-Sat) Another good choice for evening dining is this gourmet den, best known for its magnificent fondue (minimum two persons); with flavours spanning Tex-Mex and French to Cajun.
The ICA supermarket and Systembolaget are in the Wachtmeister shopping centre.
Getting There & Around
Ronneby airport (0457-255 90) is 33km west of Karlskrona; the Flygbuss leaves from Stortorget (Skr80). SAS flies to Stockholm Arlanda daily, and Blekingeflyg flies to Stockholm Bromma Sunday to Friday.
The bus and train stations are just north of central Karlskrona. Blekingetrafiken