Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [149]
Svenska Buss runs four times a week from Malmö to Stockholm, calling at Kristianstad, Karlshamn and Karlskrona. Swebus Express service 834 runs once to twice daily from Malmö to Kalmar, calling at Kristianstad, Karlshamn and Karlskrona.
Kustbussen runs six times daily on weekdays (twice daily on weekends) each way between Karlskrona and Kalmar (around Skr150, 1½ hours).
Direct trains run at least 13 times daily to Karlshamn (Skr70, one hour) and Kristianstad (Skr117, two hours), at least seven times daily to Emmaboda (Skr54, 40 minutes), and 10 times to Lund (Skr177, two hours and forty minutes) and Malmo (Skr177, three hours). Trains also run at least a couple of times to Göteborg (Skr382, five hours). Change at Emmaboda for Kalmar.
Stena Line (031-704 0000; www.stenaline.se) ferries to Gdynia (Poland) depart from Verkö, 10km east of Karlskrona (take bus 6).
For a taxi, call Zon Taxi (230 50).
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KARLSHAMN
0454 / pop 31,050
With its quaint cobbled streets, old wooden houses and splash of art-nouveau architecture, you’d never guess that quiet Karslhamn was once so wicked. Alcoholic drinks, tobacco, snuff and playing cards were produced in great quantities here, and it was a major 19th-century smugglers’ den. Karlshamn was also the port from where many Swedes left for America. One of Sweden’s biggest free festivals, the Baltic Festival (Östersjöfestivalen; 810 00; balticfestival@karlshamn.se) in mid- to late July, sees a quarter of a million people roll in for bands and a carnival parade.
Information
Most services line Drottninggatan. The tourist office (812 03; www.karlshamn.se; Ronnebygatan 1; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun mid-Jun–early Aug; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri mid-Aug–mid-Jun; also 10am-2pm Sat mid-May–mid-Jun & early–mid-Aug) can help with information and bookings.
Sights
The poignant utvandrar-monumentet is in a park by the harbour, commemorating all the America-bound emigrants. The monument’s figures are characters from Vilhelm Moberg’s classic work The Emigrants: Karl Oscar, looking forward to the new country, and Kristina, looking back towards her beloved Duvemåla. Nearby, you can peer through the windows of a 300-year-old fishing cottage.
The ‘culture quarter’ Karlshamns Kulturkvarter (148 68; Vinkelgatan 8; admission Skr20; noon-5pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug, 1-4pm Mon-Fri Sep-May) provides interesting information about Karlhamn’s tobacco and punsch-producing history, mixed in 15with some beautiful 18th-century merchants’ houses.
Sleeping & Eating
STF Vandrarhem Karlshamn (140 40; stfturistkhamn@hotmail.com; Surbrunnsvägen 1C; dm Skr185; ) On the eastern side of the town grid, near the train station, this hostel offers good rooms, all with private bathrooms. Kids will love the nearby playground, created by children.
First Hotel Carlshamn (890 00; carlshamn@firsthotels.se; Varvsgatan 1; s Skr800-1400, d Skr1000-1600; ) Although the rooms are begging for a revamp (think mission brown furniture and bathrooms straight out of 1985), they are spotlessly clean and comfortable, and some even offer harbour views. Other positives include a sauna, small gym, top-quality restaurant and handy location opposite the tourist office.
Fiskstugan (190 35; Vägga Fiskhamn; sandwiches Skr45-65, meals Skr70-130; lunch & dinner mid-Apr–early Sep) A 25-minute stroll southeast of the centre, this smart, casual seafood restaurant sits on a pretty little harbour. Choose your nosh at the deli-style counter (the grilled seafood kebabs are delicious), then soak up the semibucolic views while your food is cooked. Ask the tourist office for directions.
Köpmannagården (317 87; Drottninggatan 88; pizzas Skr65-90; Wed-Mon) For a cheapish feed, try this pleasant restaurant and pizzeria with its rustic summer courtyard.
Gourmet Grön (164 40; Östra Piren, Biblioteksgatan 6; tapas/buffet Skr70-150; 11.30am-3pm Mon-Fri) Oozing contemporary cafeteria cool, this waterside award-winner serves wonderful buffets with an strong emphasis on vegetarian