Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [166]
Boats run frequently to Asperö (nine minutes), Brännö (20 minutes) and Styrsö (30 minutes) from around 5.30am to 1am (less frequently at weekends); services to the other islands are more limited.
The best information about the islands is the English-language booklet Excursions in the Southern Archipelago, published by Västtrafik and available from the tourist offices or Västtrafiken information booths (Click here).
Brännö
pop 790
Brännö’s beaches and outdoor dance floor are its biggest attractions, although it’s hard to take your eyes off the local lastmoped: bizarre-looking motorised bikes with large trays attached.
The busiest ferry terminal is Rödsten, in the northeast, but ferries also call at Husvik in the southwest.
From the church in the centre of the island, follow the cycling track through the woods towards the west coast. A 15-minute walk from the end of the track leads to a stone causeway and the island Galterö – a strange treeless landscape of rock slabs, ponds, deserted sandy beaches and haunting bird calls. You can watch ships of all sizes and colours heading into or out of Göteborg harbour.
From mid-June to mid-August, Börjessons (60 96 70; www.stromma.se) runs evening cruises (usually on Thursday) from Lilla Bommen harbour to Husvik’s pier dance floor, where passengers can groove for a couple of hours before returning to Göteborg. The tour costs Skr200 per adult; dinner is available on board at an additional cost. Check the website for the latest prices and timetables.
Get away from it all at Pensionat Bagge (97 38 80; www.baggebranno.se; s/d low season Skr375/675, high season Skr475/795), a simple, friendly place about a kilometre south of the ferry quay, which comes complete with bike hire (Skr85 per day).
With the same owners, Brännö Värdshus (97 04 78; info@brannovardshus.se; Husviksvägen; mains Skr100-210; 11am-11pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug; 11am-9pm Tue-Sun May; 11am-7pm Thu-Sun mid-Aug–Apr) houses a cosy restaurant, cafe and bakery and serves excellent meals, including the local speciality rödspätta (plaice). It also hosts regular live jazz and folk gigs in the summer. There’s a grocery shop near the church.
Other Islands
Just southeast of Brännö, Köpstadsö is a small island with a quaint village of pretty painted houses and narrow streets. Transport on the island is even more basic than it is on Brännö: locals use individually named wheelbarrows, parked by the quay.
In the central part of the archipelago, Styrsö has two village centres (Bratten and Tången, both with ferry terminals), a mixture of old and modern houses, and a history of smuggling. There’s a cafe, pizzeria and supermarket at Tången. A bridge crosses from Styrsö to densely populated neighbouring Donsö, with a functioning fishing harbour.
The southern island of Vrångö has a good swimming beach on the west coast, about 10 minutes’ walk from the ferry. The northern and southern ends of the island are part of an extensive nature reserve.
Tiny Vinga, 8km west of Galterö, has impressive rock slabs and decent swimming, and has been home to a lighthouse since the 17th century. The writer, composer and painter Evert Taube was born here in 1890 – his father was the lighthouse-keeper. Börjessons (60 96 70; www.stromma.se) runs exhilarating, three-hour tours on high-speed RIB boats (Skr490) from Lilla Bommen (Göteborg) to Vinga (daily in July, and weekly in May, June, August and September). Check the website for updated times and prices.
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MARSTRAND
0303 / pop 1300
Looking like a Tommy Hilfiger ad (think crisp white summer houses and moneyed eye-candy on gleaming boats), this former spa town and island is a Swedish royal favourite. Boasting the country’s most popular