Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [167]
Opposite the ferry terminal is the tourist office (600 87; tk.marstrand@kungalv.se; Hamngatan 33; 11am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun early–late Jun; 11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun late Jun–Aug; 8am-noon Mon-Fri Sep-May). There’s no ATM or Systembolaget, so bring wealth and wine with you.
Looming over the town is doughty Carlstens Fästning (602 65; www.carlsten.se; adult/7-15yr Skr70/25; 11am-6pm Jun–mid-Aug; 11am-4pm mid-late Aug; 11am-4pm Sat & Sat Sep-May), a fortress constructed in the 1660s after the Swedish takeover of Bohuslän; later building work was completed by convicts sentenced to hard labour. Its impressive round tower reaches 96m above sea level, and there are smashing archipelago views from the top. Admission includes a guided tour (call ahead for English-language tour times), although you can explore by yourself with an audio guide.
Pick up the English-language Discover Marstrand brochure from the tourist office and set off for an hour’s walk round the island. Sterling structures include the town hall, which is the oldest stone building in the county, and the 13th-century Maria Kyrka.
Budget accommodation is not Marstrand’s forte. The most reasonably priced option is Marstrands Varmbadhus Båtellet (600 10; marstrandsvarmbadhus@telia.com; Kungsplan; d/tr/q from Skr675/885/1180; ), a private hostel with associated pool and sauna. Turn right after disembarking from the ferry and follow the waterfront for 400m. Only dormitory accommodation is available in the summer.
Located at the northern end of the harbour, the Hotell Nautic (610 30; www.hotellnautic.com; Långgatan 6; B&B s/d Skr880/1150; ) has bright, simple rooms decked out in blues and creams. A couple have balconies with great sea views.
Marstrand’s numerous eating options include fast-food stalls along the harbour. Follow your nose to Bergs Konditori (600 96; Hamngatan 9; snacks Skr20-70; May-Aug), a dockside konditori (bakery-patisserie) selling fresh bread, cakes, quiches and sandwiches.
For fresh seafood, head to Marstrands Wärdshus (603 69; Hamngatan 23; noon-late Easter-Sep), a harbourside crustacean restaurant. Yacht-spot on the alfresco terrace with a speciality Seabreeze cocktail in hand.
From Göteborg you can take bus 312 to Arvidsvik (on Koön) then cross to Marstrand by frequent passenger-only ferry. The complete journey takes about an hour. Buy a Maxirabbat 100 ticket (Skr100) from the Västtrafik information booth at Nils Ericson Terminalen in Göteborg and validate it on the bus.
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BOHUS FÄSTNING
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Survivor of no fewer than 14 sieges, the hulking ruins of Bohus Fästning (992 00; adult/7-16yr Skr45/25, cash only; 10am-7pm May-Aug, 11am-3pm Sep, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun Oct, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun Apr) stand on an island in the Nordre älv, near Kungälv. Construction of the fortress was ordered in 1308 by the Norwegian king to protect Norway’s southern border. The building was enlarged over the centuries, becoming one of Sweden’s toys at the Peace of Roskilde in 1658. Its substantial remains include a remarkable round tower. Tourist information for the area is available at the fortress.
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ROCK CARVINGS 101
Bohuslän’s Bronze Age rock carvings (hällristningar) are a prolific sight, a phenomenal 3000-year-old artistic record of religious beliefs, rites and everyday living. Under open skies, the carvings are free to view. The enlightening book, The Rock Carving Tour (Skr50), available only from Bohusläns Museum, contains thoughtful interpretations and detailed maps showing you how to find the best Bohuslän sites.
The Tanum plain is particularly rich in carvings, and the entire 45-sq-km area has been placed on the Unesco World Heritage List. Start your odyssey at Vitlycke, within the Tanum area, where you’ll find ships, animals, humans and tiny footsteps scattered through the woods. The splendid 22m Vitlycke Rock forms a