Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [172]
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The summer-only tourist office (321 20; Ingrid Bergmanstorg; 9.30am-6pm mid-Jun–Aug) offers internet access (Skr25 per 15 minutes) and can advise on boat trips to the popular, rocky island of Väderöarna (adult/under 13yr return trip Skr300/150).
After pottering about, eating ice cream and browsing the trinket shops, walk up the Vetteberget cliff for unforgettable 360-degree views and mesmerising sunsets. From July to mid-August, 1½-hour island boat trips (321 25; info@halsanifjallbacka.se; adult/child Skr150/75; 3pm) and two-hour seal safaris (adult/child Skr150/75; 7pm Tue & Thu) depart from the harbour.
On a teeny little island just off the harbour, Badholmens Vandrarhem (321 50, 0703-28 79 55; per person Skr200) is a low-fuss hostel reached by a causeway. Four plain bunk-bedded huts look out to sea, and there’s a cafe, laundry and free sauna for guests nearby.
Stora Hotellet (310 03; www.storahotellet-fjallbacka.se; Galärbacken; s/d/ste Jun-Aug from Skr1325/1750/2350, Sep-May from Skr1125/1450/1990; ) is a whimsical hotel offering a trip ‘around the world in 23 rooms’. It was originally owned by a ship’s captain who decorated it with exotic souvenirs. He named each room after his favourite ports and explorers (and girls!), and each tells its own story. Extras include a restaurant, as well as lobster-fishing packages (from Skr2595 per person) from late September to November.
With its killer waterside location and top-notch grub, laid-back Bryggan Fjällbacka (310 60; info@brygganfjallbacka.se; Ingrid Bergmanstorg; d with shared/private bathroom Skr1290/1490, apt Skr2300; meals Skr90-275; accommodation Easter-Dec, by prior arrangement Jan-Easter; restaurant late May-Aug, Sat & Sun Apr-late May & Sep-Jan) is a massive summer hit. Opt for fantastic pub and cafe fare or posh-nosh options like grilled scallops served with coconut and lemongrass-flavoured mussel soup and mushroom spring-roll. There’s an upstairs piano bar and boutique accommodation to boot.
The best way to reach Fjällbacka from Göteborg is to take a Strömstad-bound train to Dingle station, then bus 875 to Fjällbacka. The entire journey should take about two hours and 20 minutes, although it’s always best to use the Travel Planner option at www.vasttraffik.se to avoid long connection times.
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UDDEVALLA
0522 / pop 50,920
You might find yourself in Bohuslän’s capital, Uddevalla, while waiting for transport connections. If so, pop into the museum or take a dip in the old spa area at Gustafsberg. Otherwise, it’s a mostly modern, industrial place, giving little reason to linger long. The tourist office (997 20; info@uddevalla.com; Kungstorget 4; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun mid-Jun–Aug, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Thu Sep–mid-Jun) can help with information.
Bohusläns Museum (65 65 00; www.bohuslansmuseum.se; Museigatan 1; admission free; 10am-8pm Mon-Thu, 10am-4pm Fri-Sun May-Aug, closed Mon Sep-Apr), near the bus station, tells the history of the area from the Stone Age onwards, with displays on traditional stone, boat-building and fish-preserving industries. There’s also an art gallery and restaurant.
Based in an old bathing house, STF Vandrarhem Gustafsberg/Uddevalla (152 00; info@gustafsberg.se; dm Skr225; Jun-Aug) enjoys a wonderful waterside location at the old spa of Gustafsberg, 4km from the centre. There are recreation areas and a cafe down this way, too. The area can be reached by boat (Skr25), five times daily from the jetty across the river from the museum, or by local bus.
Regional buses and trains run daily to Strömstad (1¼ hours) and Göteborg (1¼ hours).