Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [173]
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STRÖMSTAD
0526 / pop 11,560
A sparky resort, fishing harbour and spa town, Strömstad is laced with ornate wooden buildings echoing nearby Norway. Indeed, Norwegians head here en masse in summer to take advantage of Sweden’s cheaper prices, lending a particularly lively air to the town’s picturesque streets and bars.
There are several fantastic Iron Age remains in the area, and some fine sandy beaches at Capri and Seläter. Boat trips run to the Koster islands, the most westerly in Sweden and popular for cycling.
The tourist office (623 30; www.stromstadtourist.se; Gamla Tullhuset, Ångbåtskajen 2; 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun Jun-Aug, shorter hours Sep-May), between the two harbours on the main square, offers internet access (Skr20 per 15 minutes). Alternatively, log on at the library (193 16; Karlsgatan 17; 11am-7pm Mon & Tue, 11am-5pm Wed-Fri, closed Sat & Sun).
Sights & Activities
In town, Strömstads Museum (102 75; stromstads.museum@telia.com; Södra Hamngatan 26; admission free; 11am-4pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat) looks at local themes. One of Sweden’s largest, most magnificent stone ship settings (admission free; 24hr) lies 6km northeast of Strömstad. Resting in a field full of wildflowers, its lack of visitors makes it a more personal experience than Ales Stenar. There are 49 stones in total, with the stem and stern stones reaching over 3m in height; the site has been dated to AD 400 to 600. Across the road is a huge site containing approximately 40 Iron Age graves. Ask at the tourist office or bus station for information on buses out there. Alternatively, there’s a gorgeous walking path from the north of town.
Open by appointment only (contact the tourist office), the Romanesque stone Skee Kyrka is about 6km east of Strömstad and has a 10th-century nave. There’s also a painted wooden ceiling and an unusual 17th-century reredos with 24 sculptured figures. Nearby lie Iron Age graves, a curious bell tower and a mid-Neolithic passage tomb (c 3000 BC).
Boat trips (adult/child return trip Skr120/65) run from Strömstad’s north harbour to the beautiful Koster islands (www.kosteroarna.com) roughly every 30 minutes from July to mid-August and less frequently at other times. North Koster is hilly and has good beaches. South Koster is flatter and better for cycling.
Inquire at the tourist office about summer seal safaris.
Sleeping & Eating
Strömstad Camping (611 21; info@stromstadcamping.se; Uddevallavägen; sites low/high season Skr160/210, 2-bed cabins Skr490-550; May-Sep) In a lovely, large park at the southern edge of town, the campsite also has 36 shady cabins for rent.
Crusellska Hemmet (101 93; info@crusellska.com; Norra Kyrkogatan 12; dm/s/d Skr180/320/440; Mar-early Dec; ) No, it’s not a Disney villain; it’s an exceptional STF hostel. Drifting white curtains, pale decor and wicker lounges lend the place a boutique vibe. The kitchen is seriously spacious and there’s a peaceful garden for alfresco contemplation, as well as a range of pampering spa treatments. Book ahead.
Hotell Krabban (142 00; www.hotellkrabban.se; Bergsgatan 15; s/d Skr790/990; ) ‘The Crab’ is a small and personal place in the centre of town. Rooms, based in an old wooden building, have nautical undertones. There are cheaper alternatives (around Skr100 less) if you’re happy to share a corridor bathroom.
Laholmens Fisk (102 40; Torget) Moreish seafood baguettes (from Skr40) are sold along with fish fresh off the boats, just off the main square, next door to Restaurang Bryggan.
Restaurang Bryggan (600 65; Ångbåtskajen 6; lunch Skr130, mains Skr150-325; 11am-11pm Mon-Thu, 11am-midnight Fri, noon-midnight Sat, 1-11pm Sun) In a wonderful place for ocean-gazing, this cosy restaurant is tucked along the little harbour lane behind the tourist office. Dishes are fish- and meat-based, with one veggie option, and