Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [174]
Restaurang Trädgården (127 24; Östra Klevgatan 4; lunch buffet Skr160-175, mains Skr190-295; lunch year-round, dinner Jun-Aug) Chinking glasses and upbeat alfresco supping lure you to this convivial restaurant. In summer, the grilled seafood and meat lunch buffet is a particular hit, while the immaculate à la carte menu sparkles with culinary marvels.
The ICA supermarket (Södra Hamngatan 8) is central, and Systembolaget (Oslovägen 7) is a couple of minutes’ walk away.
Getting There & Around
Buses and trains both use the train station near the southern harbour. The Swebus Express (0771-21 82 18; www.swebusexpress.com) service from Göteborg to Oslo calls here once or twice daily and Västtrafik runs buses to Göteborg (Skr200) up to five times daily. Strömstad is the northern terminus of the Bohuståg train system, with around six trains daily to/from Göteborg (Skr200).
Ferries run from Strömstad to Sandefjord in Norway (Click here).
For a taxi, call Strömstads Taxi (122 00). For car hire, contact Statoil (121 92; Oslovägen 42). At the time of research, there were no bike-rental facilities in town: contact the tourist office for updates.
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DALSLAND
Northern Dalsland is an introspective mix of long lakes, still forests and silent towns, and the perfect spot to escape the hordes. You can paddle through the wilderness all the way to Norway from sleepy Dals-Ed (also known as ‘Ed’); contact Canodal (618 03; www.canodal.com; Gamla Edsvägen 4, Dals-Ed; 2-person canoes per day/week Skr180/900) for details. The company also supplies equipment for wilderness camping.
The eastern half of Dalsland is equally watery and peaceful, but with more things to see. The scenic Dalsland Canal crosses the region and gets especially interesting (we promise) at Håverud. The canal itself is only 10km long, but it links a series of narrow lakes between Vänern and Stora Le, providing a route 250km long. Not everyone wants to relax on these waterways: a new endurance race, the Dalsland Kanot Maraton (www.kanotmaraton.se), sees competitors racing their canoes over a gruelling 55km course here in mid-August.
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HÅVERUD
0530
An intriguing triple transport pile-up occurs at tiny Håverud, where a 32m aqueduct carries the Dalsland Canal over the river, and a road bridge crosses above them both.
The well-stocked tourist office (189 90; turist@dalsland.se; Dalslands Center; 10am-7pm Jul, 10am-6pm Jun & Aug, 10am-4pm May & Sep) offers internet access (Skr15 per 15 minutes). The Dalslands Center is the main venue for Bokdagar i Dalsland (www.bokdagaridalsland.se, in Swedish), a three-day literature festival held annually in late July or early August, with readings, seminars and book launches focusing on Nordic writers.
The area around the aqueduct is a chilled-out spot, filled with ambling visitors and the crashing noise of water. Pleasures are simple: visit the Tardis-like Kanalmuséet (306 24; adult/under 15yr Skr30/free; 10am-6pm Jun-Aug) where the history of the canal is told through imaginative displays; sit with a beer and watch boats negotiating the lock; or hop on a vessel yourself for various boat tours along the canal, including combined boat and scenic-railway trips to Bengtsfors (Skr300 return) and Långbron (from Skr150 return). These mainly run from late June to late August, and can be booked at the tourist office. Steamboat trips (adult/under 12yr Skr30/20) to Upperud are also available.
The dinky STF hostel (302 75; Museivägen 3; dm Skr200; ) overlooks the canal. Its attic-like rooms are pleasant but can get warm in summer. Outside May to August, book ahead.
Post-industrial Håfveruds Brasseri (351 31; Dalslands Center; mains Skr95-300; daily Jun-Aug, Sat & Sun May & Aug), based in an old paper mill (chains still hang from the ceiling), and with shaded lockside tables, serves everything from sandwiches to hearty elk sausages. There’s a delicatessen for self-caterers.
For transport details, see opposite.
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