Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [175]
AROUND HÅVERUD
About 3km south of the aqueduct is Upperud, home to the savvy Dalslands Museum & Konsthall (0530-300 98; www.dalslandsmuseum.se; admission free; noon-8pm Tue-Sun Jul & Aug; noon-5pm Wed-Sun mid-Mar–Jun & Sep; noon-5pm Sat & Sun Oct–mid-Dec). Pop in for a compact collection of local art, furniture, ceramics, ironware and Åmål silverware, as well as clued-up temporary exhibitions. The small sculpture park in the grounds features some whimsical installations, including an anarchic wooden tower by eccentric artist Lars Vilks. The on-site Café Bonaparte (so-called because Napoleon’s niece Christine once lived there) combines yummy coffee and snacks with soothing lake views.
Another few kilometres south at Skållerud is a beautiful, shiny-red, 17th-century wooden church (0530-300 14; 8am-4pm May-Oct, during services Nov-Apr), with well-preserved paintings and biblical sculptures.
Atmospheric Högsbyn Nature Reserve, about 8km north of Håverud near Tisselskog, has woodland walks and a shallow bathing spot. Best of all are its impressive Bronze Age rock carvings (hällristningar): 50 overgrown slabs feature animals, boats, labyrinths, sun signs, and hand and foot marks. You can get here from Håverud on a boat trip (0530-310 97, 0530-304 00; adult/7-14yr Skr160/65; 1pm Jul–mid-Aug) that gives you 45 minutes at the carvings.
Baldersnäs Herrgård (0531-412 13; admission free), 10km further north past the village of Dals Långed, is a beautiful manor house and grounds, complete with English garden, swimming spots, restaurant and cafe, handicraft stalls and a small Naturum. Quality accommodation (s/d Skr995/1390) is offered here too.
Getting There & Away
Mellerud is on the main Göteborg–Karlstad train line, and Swebus Express buses between Göteborg and Karlstad stop here once daily (except Saturday) in either direction. Local bus 720 runs a circular route to/from Mellerud via Upperud, Håverud and Skållerud.
Return to beginning of chapter
VÄSTERGÖTLAND
VÄNERSBORG
0521 / pop 36,940
Vänersborg, at the southern outlet of lake Vänern, was once known as ‘Little Paris’, though it’s hard to see why today. The scenic nature reserve and royal hunting grounds outside town are its main attraction, although families may get a kick out of Skräcklen park, with its playgrounds, waffles and splash-happy bathing spots.
The tourist office (135 09; www.visittrollhattanvanersborg.se; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun) is at the train station, and banks and other facilities are mostly along Edsgatan.
Vänersborgs Museum (600 62; Östra Plantaget; admission free; noon-4pm Tue, Thu, Sat & Sun year-round, plus noon-4pm Wed Jun-Aug) is the country’s oldest provincial museum and has a remarkable southwest African bird collection along with local exhibits and the odd ancient Egyptian artefact.
Described by Linnaeus (see boxed text) as an ‘earthly paradise’, the Hunneberg & Hanneberg Nature Reserve covers two dramatic, craggy plateaus 8km east of town. There are 50km of walking trails here that are certainly worth exploring. The deep ravines and primeval forest also make great hiding places for wild elk, and this area has been a favourite royal hunting ground for over 100 years. Three-hour elk-spotting safaris (adult/5-16yr Skr250/175; 6.30pm Mon & Thu Jul & Aug) leave from the train station: book tickets at the tourist office.
Kungajaktmuseet Älgens Berg (27 79 91; www.algensberg.com; adult/child Skr60/30; 10am-6pm Jun-Aug; 11am-4pm Tue-Sun Sep–early Nov & mid-Feb–May; 11am-4pm Tue-Fri early Nov–late Feb), the royal hunting museum, is at Hunneberg and tells you everything you could ever wish to know about elk. There’s a great cafe on the grounds, as well as a handicrafts shop. Transport links are tedious – your best bet is to catch the frequent bus 62 from the town square to Vägporten, then walk 2km uphill.
Sleeping & Eating
Hunnebergs Vandrarhem & Kursgård (22 03 40; Bergagårdsvägen 9B, Vargön; sites from Skr100, dm Skr200; ) In a big old manor house near the cliffs of Hunneberg (7km east of the centre),