Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [179]
The church dates from the 12th century, but the base of the unusual three-steeple tower may well be that of an earlier wooden structure. Lurking inside are medieval paintings, as well as a 13th-century font and triumphal cross.
There’s a small, seasonal kiosk (34 32 60; Pilgrimsgården; noon-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug) near the church with snacks, tourist brochures and maps. Bus 106 runs to Husaby, but very infrequently.
KINNEKULLE
The ‘flowering mountain’ Kinnekulle (306m), 18km northeast of Lidköping, is a natural wonderland, with unusually diverse geology and plant life, including mighty ancient oaks. It’s also home to rare creatures, including the greater crested newt and short-horned grasshopper. There are numerous short nature trails, or you could explore it on the 45km-long Kinnekulle vandringsled (walking trail), which runs past remainders of the old limestone workings. The tourist office provides a map and the informative Welcome to Götene and Kinnekulle brochure. Local trains run to Källby, Råbäck and Hällekis, with access to the trail.
Sleeping & Eating
STF Vandrarhem Lidköping (664 30; info@lidkopingsvandrarhem.com; Gamla Stadens Torg 4; dm/d Skr140/460) Just a couple of minutes’ walk from the train station, this hostel is in a pretty spot in the old town. Standards are high, and the staff are helpful.
Krono Camping (268 04; www.kronocamping.com; Läckögatan; sites Skr180-230, 2-person cabins Skr395-475; ) This is a huge, family-oriented lakeside camping ground, 1.5km northwest of town beside the road to Läckö Slott, where kids can run wild. There’s everything you could possibly need: shop, restaurant, laundry, minigolf, boules, Jacuzzi, sauna, playground and boat hire.
Hotel Läckö (230 00; kontakt@hotellacko.se; Gamla Stadens Torg 5; s/d incl breakfast Skr690/890) Our favourite in town is this old-school, family-run charmer. The spacious rooms boast high ceilings, solid wooden furniture and crisp linen, while breakfast is served on dainty antique porcelain. There’s a cosy little reading room with comfy leather armchairs, and quirky touches like whimsical hanging millinery.
Café Limtorget (251 45; Mjölnagården, Limtorget 1; Mon-Sat) With its rose-filled garden, this cute old wooden cottage is well worth seeking out. It serves sandwiches and ciabatta for around Skr40, plus pastries, waffles (in the spring) and other temptations.
Café O Bar (270 27; Nya Stadens Torg 4; lunch Skr70, mains Skr180-210) This sleek bolt hole, on the main square, is a fashionable restaurant-bar with a soulful selection of meals like soothing fish soup with saffron and aioli.
Restaurang Sjöboden (104 08; restaurang@sjoboden.se; Spikens Fiskehamn; mains Skr145-275; noon-10pm May-Aug) Six kilometres south of Läckö Slott, the tiny village of Spiken is home to this unmissable harbourside restaurant where outstanding seasonal creations like local roe with horseradish cheesecake keep the foodies swooning. Take bus 132.
Sibling restaurant–wine bar Pirum (615 20; Skaragatan 7; mains Skr245; from 5pm Mon-Sat) awaits in central Lidköping.
Getting There & Around
Town and regional buses stop on Nya Stadens Torg. Buses 1 and 5 run roughly hourly on weekdays (four Saturday and Sunday) between Trollhättan, Lidköping and Skara. Västtrafik trains from Lidköping to Hallsberg or Herrljunga connect with Stockholm and Göteborg services respectively.
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KARLSBORG
0505 / pop 6850
A quiet little town s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-d alongside Vättern lake, Karlsborg is some 80km east of Lidköping. Amazingly, this peaceful backwater was once intended to be Sweden’s capital in times of war, thanks to its beast of a bastion, Karlsborgs Fästning.
The tourist office (173 50; info@karlsborgsturism.se; Ankarvägen 2; 9.30am-6pm Jul–mid-Aug, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri mid-Aug–Jun)