Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [180]
Karlsborgs Fästning was one of Europe’s largest construction projects. With a circumference of around 5km, this fortress is so huge that it took from 1820 to 1909 to complete; it was out of date even before it was finished and mothballed immediately. Most of the 30-odd buildings inside are original: there’s a military museum (45 18 26; adult/child/family Skr40/10/90; 10am-4pm mid-May–late Jun; 10am-6pm late Jun–early Aug; 10am-5pm rest of Aug; 10am-3pm Mon-Fri Sep–mid-May) and a church, which has an extraordinary candelabra made from 276 bayonets.
The fortress area is always open. If you’re after gun smoke, cannon roar and scuttling rats, though, you’ll have to book a special-effect guided tour (adult/7-12yr Skr80/40; noon daily early Jun–mid-Jun & mid-Aug–late Aug; more frequently late Jun–mid-Aug) at the tourist office; from early July to August, there are up to 11 tours every day. The Lilla Blå tourist train (adult/7-12yr Skr80/40; 2.30pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug) also zips round the centre of the fortress.
Karlsborg is the start/end of the western section of the Göta Canal (Click here for details).
Right on the fortress’s doorstep, STF Van-drarhem Karlsborg (446 00; Ankarvägen 2; dm/d from Skr160/340; ) is used as military accommodation for most of the year. A good option is to stay here and self-cater (the nearby town centre has supermarkets), although there are more sleeping and eating options in town, especially beside the Göta Canal about 2km northwest of the fortress (follow the main road).
A bus runs every hour or two to Skövde, connecting with SJ trains to Göteborg or Stockholm.
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HALLAND
HALMSTAD
035 / pop 89,730
After roasting themselves on the 6km-long Blue Flag beach at Tylösand (8km west of town), many visitors hit Halmstad’s heaving bars and clubs to crank up the party vibe.
Danish until 1645, Halmstad served as an important fortified border town. Its street plan was laid out by the Danish king Christian IV after a huge fire wiped out most of the buildings in 1619. He also awarded Halmstad its coat of arms: you’ll see the three crowns and three hearts motif dotted all over the place.
The tourist office (13 23 20; www.halmstad.se/turist; 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun late Jun–mid-Aug; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat rest of Aug; 10am-12.30pm & 1.30-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-Apr; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat May) is inside Halmstads Slott (the castle). For banks and supermarkets, hit Stora Torg and Storgatan. For free internet access, head to the strikingly contemporary library (13 71 81; stadsbiblioteket@halmstad.se; Axel Olsonsgata 1; 10am-8pm Mon-Thu, 10am-6pm Fri, 10am-4pm Sat May-Aug; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun Sep-Apr).
Sights & Activities
For a small county gallery, Halmstads Museum (16 23 00; Tollsgatan; adult/under 19yr Skr40/free; noon-4pm Tue-Sun, to 8pm Wed) churns out some impressive art and design exhibitions. Its modest collection of local treasures is ingeniously displayed, with silver hoards and Viking swords set in cases in the floor for that ‘just discovered’ feeling.
Halmstad Äventyrsland (10 84 60; Gamla Tylösandsvägen 1; admission Skr180; 10am-8pm Jul & early–mid Aug, 10am-6pm Jun & mid–late Aug), lying just out of town, is a theme park for little-ish kids featuring pirates, fairy-tale characters, dinosaurs, a miniature village, rides and waterslides.
Another family-friendly option, across the river and downstream from the tourist office, Tropikcenter (12 33 33; Strandgatan 19; adult/child Skr70/40; 10am-6pm Jul, 10am-5pm Aug-Jun) is in the old customs house and shows off tropical birds, fish and reptiles. At both places, kids under 1m tall get in for free.
The museum ship Najaden (voluntary donation appreciated; 11am-3pm Sat early Jun–early Sep, also 6-8pm Tue & Thu late Jun–early Aug), berthed just outside the castle and built in 1897, was a training ship for the Swedish Royal Navy.
Christian IV built Halmstad Slott (open twice yearly for guided tours in early