Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [215]
Målkull Ann’s Restaurang, B&B & Van-drarhem (381 96; www.maalkullann.se; Vasagatan 19; hostel dm Skr170, s/d Skr320/500, B&B s/d Skr600/960, pensionat r from Skr720; ) Housed in several buildings near the Vasaloppsmuseet, this comfortable place has a good range of options. There are cosy B&B rooms with cheerful countrified decor (tariffs include breakfast) and there’s the STF youth hostel (at Fredsgatan 6) for just the basics. There’s also one suite with a view over the finish line of the Vasaloppet path (Skr960). Guests can book time in the sauna; there are bikes for hire (Skr70 per day); and there’s a computer with internet access (Skr20). Reservations are recommended.
Mora Hotell & Spa (59 26 50; www.morahotell.se; Strandgatan 12; s/d from Skr1170/1350, discounted to Skr748/948; ) There’s been a hotel here since 1830, although the current version is as modern as it gets, with all the facilities you’d expect from a big chain – plus personality. Rooms combine clean lines, wooden floors and earthy tones with bright folk-art accents. Head to the spa for steam rooms, Jacuzzis, massage and body treatments.
EATING
Mora Kaffestuga (100 82; Kyrkogatan 8; meals Skr35-75) For a quick lunch – your basic salads, quiches and sandwiches – this coffeeshop has a restful grassy garden out back.
Helmers Konditori (100 11; Kyrkogatan 10; meals Skr35-75) Next door is another good cafe-bakery, with homemade bread, sandwiches and cakes.
Claras Restaurang (158 98; Vasagatan 38; lunch Skr75, mains Skr110-190) In the picturesque old town, near the Zorn museum, you’ll find convivial Claras, with excellent service and a menu of filling staples. Try the wonderful dessert of deep-fried camembert with warm cloudberries.
Målkull Ann’s (381 90; Vasagatan; mains Skr145-185; 11am-8pm Sun-Thu, 11am-10pm Fri & Sat) Run by the same folks who keep the hostel and Målkull Ann’s B&B, this cosy restaurant and cafe occupies a cute wooden 19th-century building opposite Vasaloppsmuseet.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
The Mora-Siljan airport is 6km southwest of town on the Malung road. Nextjet (www.nextjet.se) has two to three flights to Stockholm Arlanda on weekdays and one on Sunday (50 minutes).
All Dalatrafik buses use the bus station at Moragatan 23. Bus 70 runs to Rättvik and Falun, and buses 103, 104, 105 and 245 run to Orsa. Once or twice daily, bus 170 goes to Älvdalen, Särna, Idre and Grövelsjön, near the Norwegian border.
Mora is the terminus for SJ (0771-75 75 75; www.sj.se) trains and the southern terminus of Inlandsbanan (Inland Railway), which runs north to Gällivare (mid-June to mid-August). The main train station is about 1km east of town. The more central Mora Strand is a platform station in town, but not all trains stop there, so check the timetable. When travelling to Östersund, you can choose between Inlandsbanan (Skr395, 6¼ hours, one daily, mid-June to August only) or bus 45 (Skr250, 5¼ hours, four daily). For more information on the Inlandsbanan, Click here.
Hire a car in Mora to see the best of the region, especially northwest Dalarna; for smaller budget models try OKQ8 (139 58; Vasagatan 1). You can rent bikes at Intersport (59 39 39; Kyrkogatan 7).
Orsa & Grönklitt
0250 / pop 7,030
Orsa, 16km north of Mora, is a natural stopping point on the way to the area’s biggest attraction, the humongous bear park further north in Grönklitt.
There’s a tourist office (55 25 50; orsa@siljan.se; Dalagatan 1; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat mid-Jun–mid-Aug; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri mid-Aug–mid-Jun) in Orsa, with a bank about three blocks down Dalagatan and a grocery and Systembolaget both nearby.
Fat-bottomed roly-poly bear cubs are the star attraction at Grönklitt Björnpark (462 00; www.orsagronklitt.se; family/adult/6-15yr Skr380/140/100; 10am-6pm mid-Jun–Aug, 10am-3pm Sep–mid-Jun), a wildlife reserve 16km from Orsa. Even if there are no cubs around during your visit, there’s plenty to see: lynx, wolves, red foxes and wolverines. The animals have a lot of space and natural surroundings, which is ideal