Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [216]
In winter there’s a ski area (day ski pass adult/child Skr240/195; Dec-Mar) at Grönklitt.
Orsa Camping (462 00; www.orsagronklitt.se; Orsa; sites low/high season Skr120/195, cabins per week from Skr5400; ) is a big camp site beautifully situated on the shores of the lake in Orsa. It’s particularly suitable for families, with several playgrounds, a waterslide, canoe hire, crazy golf and a beach to keep the kids happy.
Run by the Björnpark folks, Björnlängan Hostel (462 00; Grönklitt; 2-/4-bed r Skr560/1500; ) is a private hostel by the park entrance. There’s no 10-to-a-cubbyhole here: rooms are for two or four people. There’s also a sauna for guests. The hostel is frequently occupied by large groups, so book early.
Buses 103 and 104 run regularly between Mora and Orsa.
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SÄLEN & AROUND
0280 / pop 400
A split-personality village, Sälen transforms itself completely from a quiet fishing paradise in summer into Sweden’s largest and poshest ski resort in winter. It’s a tiny spot in the wilds of Dalarna, and in addition to its seven ski areas it’s a good base for all kinds of outdoor activities, including canoeing, horse riding and wildlife safaris (ask at the tourist office).
Head first to the Centrumhuset complex, where you’ll find a bank, doctor, pharmacy, Systembolaget and most other facilities, including the tourist office (187 00; info@salen.se; Centrumhuset; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug & Dec-Apr; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat May & Sep-Nov). Opposite the complex are supermarkets and stores where you can rent ski gear in winter, and inline skates, boats and canoes in summer.
Activities
The ski areas, with chalets, pubs and nightclubs, are strung out for 20km along the road running through the steep-flanked mountains west of Sälen. There are over 100 lifts, pistes of all degrees and guaranteed snow from 15 November to mid-April. For details visit www.skistar.com. About 45km north of Sälen, cheaper and quieter skiing is available at Näsfjället.
In summer, the ski hills convert to mountain-bike parks; the ski area at Lindvallen (0771-84 00 00) has a whole summer season built around the sport, and you can rent helmets and gear at the lift or via the tourist office. The bike park is open Thursday to Sunday from mid-June through August.
There’s some good hiking in the area in summer, mainly north of the road. A map of the southern section of Kungsleden costs Skr20 at the tourist office.
Sleeping & Eating
Winter visitors should contact their travel agent or the tourist office for accommodation, or contact SkiStar (0771-84 00 00; www.skistar.com) for packages. The village’s most visible hotel-restaurant, Sälens Gästgiveri, was closed and up for sale at the time of research, but the tourist office can recommend other accommodations in the area.
STF Vandrarhem Sälens (820 40; info@salensvandrarhem.se; Gräsheden; dm Skr150-170, s & d from Skr300) Perhaps slightly less ‘away from it all’ as it used to be, thanks to a new development of houses going up across the road, this rustic little hostel 27km north of Sälen is nevertheless a fantastic hideaway. It’s based in a peaceful nature reserve at Gräsheden (near Näsfjället), with some great walks nearby and the southern section of Kungsleden passing 2km from the hostel. Breakfast is available for Skr55.
Inside Centrumhuset there’s a bakery and a delicatessen selling fresh local produce.
Getting There & Around
Bus 95 runs from the ski area to Mora via Sälen, once daily in the ski season (otherwise you have to change buses at Lima).