Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [228]
The information area is full of brochures and open all year, and the desk is staffed from 10am to 6pm June to August. There’s also useful information on the internet at www.hogakusten.com.
Unfortunately, there’s little public transport in the area. Buses cruise along the E4, but don’t make it into the villages, and as a result this area is virtually impossible to explore thoroughly without your own set of wheels. That’s unless, of course, you wish to walk the Höga Kustenleden, a 127km hiking trail stretching from Höga Kustenbron to Örnsköldsvik, with shelters and cabins situated along its length.
Ask the tourist office for the map and guide book (Skr80). It’s also very easy to walk smaller sections of the trail as day or half-day trips.
In addition to the striking landscapes, the other major attractions of the region are the many well-preserved fishing villages – the pick of them being Barsta, Bönhamn and Norrfällsviken – and the lovely offshore islands, especially Högbonden and Ulvön; for transport information see opposite.
Ulvön is worth a visit for the view from the hill, Lotsberget (100m), though in peak summer season the main village can be spoiled by the large tour groups that line up to see the tiny, 17th-century chapel.
Also worth checking out are Hembygds-gården, a 19th-century house with furnishings, and Sandviken, a 17th-century village at the northern end of the island.
Norrfällsviken is a picture-perfect half circle of red and white fishing huts around a narrow inlet. There’s a hilltop chapel from 1649 (the key is kept next to the door), and the friendly Fiskar Fänget (0613-211 42; fish plates Skr70-120; late Apr–mid-Sep) sells smoked fish to take away, as well as more substantial meals in its cosy wood-panelled restaurant-pub. Next door is a tiny fishing museum (11am-4pm) where you can learn the history of surströmming, the fermented herring that’s famously an acquired taste, including how (and more to the point why) it’s made.
Skuleberget Naturum (401 71; admission free; 9am-7pm May-Sep, 10am-5pm Wed-Sun Oct-Apr), by the E4 north of Docksta, has exhibitions and lots of information on the area. The steep mountain, Skuleberget (285m), soars above the Naturum, where you can ask about hiking routes, the cable car on the other side, and rock-climbing routes (grades 2 to 3).
Skuleskogen National Park, a few kilometres northeast, contains varied and magnificent scenery, including Slåtterdalskrevan, a 200m-deep canyon. It was once a hideout for bandits; a film on view at Naturum tells the story. The park is signposted from the E4, and the Höga Kustenleden walking trail passes through it.
Sleeping & Eating
STF Vandrarhem Docksta (130 64; dm Skr130-200, s/d from Skr170/260; ) This attractive and busy hostel is 3km south of Docksta at Skoved, right along the Höga Kustenleden (High Coast Trail). It has a party atmosphere and good facilities, including a restaurant and an outdoor stage for summer concerts. Camping sites (Skr130) are available; reservations recommended.
Vandrarhem Högbonden (230 05, 420 49; dm from Skr200; May-Oct) This is a relaxing getaway on the little island of Högbonden, reached by boat from Barsta (also from Bönhamn in high season; see opposite). There’s a kitchen here, and a cafe open in summer. Book well in advance.
Hotell Höga Kusten (72 22 70; s/d Skr895/1095, discounted to Skr600/845) You’ll wake up on top of the world if you stay at this place, the large hotel just off the E4, next to the bridge. Rooms are simple, square-ish and art-themed. A cafe here serves coffee and snacks, and the attached restaurant serves basic meals from Skr85.
Kustgårdens Vandrarhem (212 55; dm Skr160), in Norrfällsviken, operated by the nearby Brittas Restaurang (212 55; d/f from Skr695/1095;