Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [229]
Norrfällsviken has a very good camping ground (213 82; sites Skr135, cabins from Skr400).
There are supermarkets in Ullanger, Nordingrå, Docksta and Mjällom.
Getting There & Around
Bus 217 runs one to six times daily between Nordingrå, the bridge and Kramfors. Länstrafiken Västerbotten bus 100 runs along the E4.
Ferries to Högbonden (0613-230 05, winter 231 00; adult/child return Skr150/50) depart Barsta from mid-May to mid-June and from mid-August to October (noon Friday to Sunday), and leave both Barsta and Bönhamn in peak summer – from mid-June to mid-August. During this period boats leave from Barsta at 9.30am, 11.30am, 2.30pm and 5.30pm, and from Bönhamn at 10am, noon, 3pm and 6pm.
Ferries to Ulvön (070-651 92 65; adult/child return Skr150/50; Jun-Aug) leave year-round from Köpmanholmen (twice daily) and mid-June to August from Ullånger (9.30am) and Docksta (10.15am).
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ÖRNSKÖLDSVIK
0660 / pop 29,000
Famous within Sweden for producing the handsome ice-hockey star Peter ‘Foppa’ Forsberg and the artist Hans Hedberg, Örnsköldsvik is a fine base for exploring the Höga Kusten and has a couple of interesting things to see and do.
The tourist office (881 00; www.ornskoldsvik.se; Strandgatan 24; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun Jul-Aug, 10am-6pm Mon-Fri & 10am-2pm Sat Sep-Jun) is inside Paradisbadet. Banks surround Storatorget, and the library (Lasarettsgatan 5) offers internet access.
Walk up Varvsberget (80m) for a good view of the town; some 275 steps lead up from Modovägen. There’s a cafe and minigolf course at the top.
The impressive Örnsköldsviks Museum & Konsthall (886 01; Läroverksgatan 1; adult/child Skr20/free, special exhibits Skr150/100; 10am-7pm) covers 9000 years of local history and includes a section on the Sami. It also hosts temporary exhibitions of art and culture, including a recent Star Wars–themed blockbuster, portraits of Astrid Lindgren and work by up-and-coming photographers.
Sculptor Hans Hedberg (1917–2007) was born just south of Örnsköldsvik, and you can see some of his work – including his signature huge sculptures of fruit and eggs – at the Hans Hedberg Museum (785 00; Arken; admission free; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri; guided tours Skr20), in the shiny modern building by the harbour.
About 5km south of the centre is Gene Fornby (537 10; adult/child Skr65/35; noon-5pm Jul–mid-Aug), an interesting reconstruction of an Iron Age farm, complete with actors and a wide range of activities, from baking to iron working. Guided tours run at 12.30pm, 2pm and 3.30pm. Take bus 21 to Geneåsvägen, then walk to the farm, or ask at the tourist office about the regular direct bus service from town.
Sleeping & Eating
STF Vandrarhem (702 44; Högsnäsgården, Högsnäs 99; dm Skr160, s/d from Skr250/420; ) This tiny place, open year-round, is in a lovely waterside setting 8km west of town, just off the E4. Take bus 40 or 412. The hostel can also arrange canoe rentals.
First Hotel Statt (26 55 90; Lasarettsgatan 2; s/d from Skr1439/1639, discounted to Skr719/919; ) The First Hotel Statt is a landmark hotel in a pretty, pinkish building by the harbour, with a terrace bar and a weekend nightclub. Some rooms have great views of the bay.
Café Galleri M (168 60; Storgatan 8; lunch from Skr65; lunch Mon-Sat, dinner Mon-Fri) A pleasant little cafe inside an art gallery, this is a good spot for lunch.
Getting There & Away
Länstrafiken Västerbotten runs bus 100 along the E4 several times daily – south to Sundsvall (2½ hours), north to Umeå (three hours) and Luleå (six hours).
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JÄMTLAND
ÖSTERSUND
063 / pop 58,000
The best way to appreciate Östersund is to take the footbridge across to the adjacent island of Frösön and gaze back at the city in profile, ideally around sunset. Seen in that light, this fun-loving town is hard to resist. Dedicated sightseers will stay busy, but what Östersund really encourages is relaxation: