Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [241]
Sleeping
SVIF Vandrarhem Kronan (43 40 50; www.vandrarhemmetkronan.se; Kronan H7; dm/s Skr170/250; ) About 3km from the centre, this year-round hostel is the best budget option in the area, with good facilities set in a forested location. To get here, take any bus heading toward Kronanområdet.
Amber Hotel (102 00; www.amberhotell.nu; Stationsgatan 67; s/d Skr790/980, discounted to Skr500/690; ) The pick of the city-centre hotels is this small wooden guesthouse; its spacious rooms have all the modern touches, such as flat-screen TV, but still feel homey. It’s just a few steps from the train station.
Strenuously mod in its decor, the designy Quality Hotel Luleå (20 10 00; lulea@quality.choicehotels.se; Storgatan 17; s/d from Skr1095/1195, discounted to Skr695/795; ) has a nightclub and several restaurants, a pool, and top of the line facilities in its rooms. A cheaper and more casual option is its sister hotel at the opposite end of Storgatan, the Comfort Hotel (220 220; Storgatan 59; s/d from Skr895/1095, discounted to Skr695/795; ), which transcends its worn state with charming staff and a faded-library theme – old books in each room, plus a book-lined reading room in the lobby. Guests at either hotel get free admission to the Cleo Nightclub inside the Quality (Thursday to Saturday evenings). Parking at either costs Skr125.
Eating & Drinking
Cafe Mat & Prat (28 11 90; Storgatan 51; mains Skr56-71; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) Sure, it’s inside a shopping mall, but this is a pleasant, homely cafe serving real espresso as well as pastas, focaccia, sandwiches, salads and a good Thai curry.
Fiskekyrkan (22 02 01; Södra Hamnen; meals Skr65-175) In an old warehouse at the south harbour, Fiskekyrkan has live music Wednesday to Saturday, plus an affordable lunch buffet (around Skr70) and a range of meals on offer, from fast food (kebabs and pizzas) to more ‘gourmet’ offerings. This is a very popular late-night drinking spot.
Cook’s Krog (21 18 00; Storgatan 17; meals Skr85-250) At the Quality Hotel, this is an upmarket but comfortable place serving Norrbotten regional specialities. Attached is Invit, a more casual bar-cafe, open Monday to Saturday until 9pm.
Roasters (888 40; Storgatan 43; mains Skr80-125) With a prime location for people-watching, especially in nice weather when outdoor tables open in the middle of the street, this cafe serves coffee and a varied lunch menu and segues toward after-work drinks hang-out as the day progresses.
Getting There & Around
AIR
The airport (24 49 00) is 9km southwest of the town centre. SAS, Direktflyg and Nordic Airways fly regularly to Stockholm, Sundsvall and Umeå. Other airlines serve smaller destinations, including Pajala. Take the airport bus (122 00) from outside the Comfort Hotel on Storgatan (Skr45).
BUS
Bus 100 runs between Haparanda, Luleå, Skellefteå, Umeå and Sundsvall at least four times daily. Buses run frequently to Boden (Skr49, one hour), Arvidsjaur (Skr162, three hours, via Boden and Älvsbyn), and Jokkmokk (Skr179, three hours) and on to Gällivare (via Boden and Vuollerim).
TRAIN
Direct Tågkompaniet trains from Stock-holm and Göteborg run at night only. Most trains from Narvik and Kiruna via Boden terminate at Luleå.
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PITEÅ
0911 / pop 22,500
Calling itself the ‘Riviera of the North’, Piteå has a compact, sweetly pastel town centre with a made-for-summer vibe and warm coastal waters that draw sun-worshiping visitors.
Piteå has all the usual services and a tourist office (933 90; www.pitea.se; Bryggargatan 14; 9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun mid-May–Aug; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep–mid-May) in a pretty yellow building next to a hopping beer garden, by the bus station. You can rent bikes here (Skr30 per day).
Sights & Activities
Piteå church (www.piteastadsforsamlin.nu; Sundsgatan; admission free), built in 1686, is among the oldest wooden churches in Norrland. It escaped being burned by the Russians in