Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [242]
There are several interesting wooden buildings on Storgatan, including the rådhuset (town hall), built in 1829 in a Finnish-Russian style imported from across the Baltic. The square it anchors is unique in that its corners are closed. Rådhuset now houses displays about the area’s cultural history in the Piteå Museum (126 15; www.piteamuseum.nu; Rådhustorget; admission free; 9am-4pm Tue-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat).
In nearby Öjebyn, 6km north of town, there is an interesting early 15th-century church with a clock tower thought to be the oldest building in Norrbotten. Around the church are cottages where parishioners from afar would stay overnight when visiting the church or the market. The town of Piteå originally sprouted up here, around the church, but was later moved closer to the sea. The church village has a museum (www.pitealandsforsamling.nu; admission free; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri Jun-Aug) and an attached cafe.
Piteå’s archipelago has about 70 islands: Transport and cottages (from Skr350 per person) can be booked through the tourist office year-round.
Sleeping & Eating
STF Vandrarhem Piteå (158 80; pitevandrarhem.fh@telia.com; Storgatan 3; dm Skr200) The STF hostel, with a nice location in Badhusparken, the city’s main park/playground, can arrange visits to the church at Öjeby.
Pite Havsbadet (327 00; www.pite-havsbad.se; sites Skr230, cabins from Skr490, hotel s/d from Skr1040/1390; ) This beachside area, about 10km south of Piteå and connected by the frequent bus 1, is the summer destination of choice for many holidaymakers. It’s huge and has a restaurant, a cafe, various pools, minigolf, a children’s playground, ‘Dinosaurieland’ and other family-focused activities, plus summer concerts and events.
Piteå Stadshotell (23 40 00; www.piteastadshotell.com; Olof Palmesgata 1; s/d from Skr1195/1425, discounted to Skr850/990) This elegant old hotel has good facilities, top-notch service and contains Statt Nightclub, a two-storey bar and dance club, plus a casino, a spa and multiple dining options. Rooms are small but nicely arranged, and more spacious suites (Skr2280) are available.
Krokodil (191 94; www.krokodil.nu; Stor-gatan 39; snacks from Skr35; 10am-4pm Mon-Sat plus evenings for events) A public living room, this ‘culture cafe’ has live music, readings, performances, art exhibits, coffee and pastries in a retro lounge.
Röda Rummet (23 40 00; dinner mains Skr125-235; lunch & dinner) At Piteå Stadshotell, this aptly named restaurant (the Red Room) serves traditional Swedish lunches (pancakes and lingonberries on Thursday!) from 11am to 1.30pm. The attached pub has a more casual atmosphere and menu to match.
Getting There & Around
Regional buses go frequently to Luleå (Skr70, 50 minutes), Haparanda (Skr187, three to four hours), Umeå (Skr220, 3½ hours) and other points. Buses connect Piteå to Älvsbyn, from where SJ night trains run to Stockholm (Skr770, 14 hours). City buses (917 00; www.citybuss.se) stop near the tourist office; tickets are Skr18.
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HAPARANDA
0922 / pop 10,300
Bargain-hunter’s alert! Haparanda has become a full-scale shopper’s paradise, thanks to a 2005 decision to build an Ikea store in this tiny town nestled up against Finland. The furniture giant’s arrival rescued the town’s economy and encouraged other businesses (mainly big-box retail stores) to invest as well. This means great deals and hectic parking lots, but the move makes some historical sense, in a way: Haparanda was founded in 1821 as a trading centre to replace Sweden’s loss of Torino (now in Finland) to Russia.
Haparanda’s main tourist office (120 10; www.haparandatornio.com; Green Line; 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) is shared with Tornio on the ‘green line’.
Sights & Activities
Haparanda’s primary attraction, other than shopping, is its unique golf course. The Green Zone Golf Course (106 60) lies right on the border with Finland, and during a full round of golf the border is crossed four times. Around Midsummer you can play under the midnight