Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [253]
Hemavan, 18km north of Tärnaby, has a larger ski area and basic facilities.
The southern entry to Kungsleden (Sweden’s finest hiking route; Click here) is in Hemavan. To reach it, head up the hill toward the ugly golden dome in Fjällparken; the ground floor of the building houses Naturum (380 23, 070-393 80 23; www.vindelfjallen.se; 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri May–mid-Jun, 9am-6pm daily mid-Jun–Aug), where there’s an exhibit on the local flora and fauna (including a section that explains what kind of droppings you’ll step on along the trail). Staff can arrange tours and provide information about trekking in the area.
Sleeping & Eating
STF Vandrarhem Tärnaby/Åkerlundska gården (300 02; dm Skr170-220, s/d from Skr330/340; Mar-May & mid-Jun–Sep) The newly renovated hostel, perched on the hillside, has awesome views across the valley, comfortable bunks in cosy rustic rooms, modern facilities and a homey atmosphere. There’s a restaurant on the ground floor that serves meals, including a vast breakfast buffet (around Skr70). Reservations are required.
Tärnaby Lapland B&B (107 00; www.tarnabylapland.com; Blå vägen 18; dm Skr190, s/d from Skr450/550; ) The most fun place to stay in town is this one, run by the thoroughly entertaining Matt and Lindy, an Australian-Swedish couple who go out of their way to make sure you enjoy the area. Spotless rooms with water views hold comfortable dorm or double beds. There’s a guest kitchen, a lounge area, a sauna, a new high-tech shower, free use of bicycles and canoes, and wi-fi. A separate building houses a warm wood-lined cafe-pub and tiny bookshop; the cafe serves lunch year-round and is open late in summer.
Hotell Sånninggården (330 00; www.sanninggarden.com; B&B/full board per person from Skr395/725) About 6km north of Hemavan, this hotel has good-value accommodation in a simple red barnlike building, and a restaurant (starters Skr59-115, dinner mains Skr155-295) that is not kidding around. If you’re out this way, it’s well worth stopping in for a unique meal – try, for example, roe deer in chantarelle sauce, whole fried mountain trout, or ripa (ptarmigan) with lingonberries and Västerbotten cheese potato gratin. There are vegetarian options for those uncomfortable with consuming the local wildlife, and the magnificent desserts will please everyone. If you overindulge, there are hiking and skiing trails right across the street.
There’s an ICA supermarket (daily) in Hemavan, and Tärnaby has a Coop Konsum, with a Systembolaget (148 80; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun) inside.
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STORUMAN
0951 / pop 6595
Though it sounds like a villain from Lord of the Rings, Storuman is perfectly harmless; in fact it can be a very useful stop on the way to exploring the remote areas nearby, and excellent walking trails surround it.
The tourist office (333 70; entrelappland@swipnet.se; Järnvägsgatan 13; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug; Mon-Fri only Sep-May) is at Hotell Luspen, near the train station. The town has all the basic facilities. For internet access, head to the library (noon-5pm Mon-Fri), attached to the huge activity centre on the main drag.
The very scenic Strandvägen road links the centre with a series of islands, including Luspholmen, with a small outdoor museum. Follow the road Utsiktsvägen (across the E12 from the train station) for 1.5km to the viewpoint at Utsikten; sunsets over the lake are magnificent.
Sweden’s largest wooden church is at Stensele, about 3km from Storuman towards Umeå on the E12.
Hotell Luspen (333 80; luspenhotell@swipnet.se; hostel s/d from Skr300/400, hotel s/d incl breakfast Skr600/700) is a friendly place by the train station, offering rooms to suit most budgets. Hostel rooms have private bathrooms; breakfast can be had for Skr40 and cycle hire is Skr60 per day.
There’s a pub-grill in the same building as the bus station waiting room, next door to Hotell Luspen. Across the street