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Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [254]

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is the cosier Kita’s Krog Piccolo (mains from Skr65; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat), a homey cafe with an unlikely combination of Thai and Italian dishes.

Bus 45 runs every day on the Gällivare–Jokkmokk–Arvidsjaur–Sorsele–Storuman–Östersund route. Buses between Mo i Rana (Norway) and Umeå also run daily, via Storuman and Tärnaby, and the Lapplandspilen (333 70; www.lapplandspilen.se) buses run overnight three times weekly from Hemavan to Stockholm, via Storuman (Skr640). In summer, Inlandsbanan trains stop here.


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SAXNÄS & AROUND

Saxnäs is a small village set in a scenic spot between lakes, and considered a paradise for fishing folk. Just outside the village, in Kultsjon, is Trappstegsforsen (0940-152 70), an impressive waterfall. Not far away, the late-18th-century Sami church village at Fatmomakke has an exhibition, kåta and other old buildings. Silver shamanistic Sami jewellery was found here in 1981.

The southern areas of Lappland have some of the finest mountain scenery in Sweden, particularly around the mountain Marsfjället (1590m); you can hike up and back from Fatmomakke, but it’s a long day (28km, 10 hours). The trek through the mountains to the village of Kittelfjäll (where the scenery is even more impressive), via the wilderness cabin Blerikstugan, is best over two days (32km).

The small STF Hostel Kultsjögården (0940-700 44; www.kultsjogarden.se; dm/s/d Skr145/220/290) at Saxnas has comfortable rooms above a restaurant-pub (the only place in the area to eat outside of peak season), plus a few small cabins. The staff can answer questions about fishing, hiking and cycling in the area.


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Directory


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CONTENTS

Accommodation

Business Hours

Children

Climate Charts

Customs

Dangers & Annoyances

Discount Cards

Embassies & Consulates

Food

Gay & Lesbian Travellers

Holidays

Insurance

Internet Access

Legal Matters

Maps

Money

Photography & Video

Post

Shopping

Solo Travellers

Telephone & Fax

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Travellers with Disabilities

Visas

Work

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ACCOMMODATION

Accommodation in Sweden is generally of a high standard; you’d have to be unlucky to stay in a dump. Sleeping reviews are organised by budget, with least expensive options appearing first. Budget options cost under Skr800, midrange costs from Skr800 to Skr1600, and top-end places come in at over Skr1600.

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BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE

For more accommodation reviews and recommendations by Lonely Planet authors, check out the online booking service at www.lonelyplanet.com/hotels. You’ll find the true, insider low-down on the best places to stay. Reviews are thorough and independent. Best of all, you can book online.

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Cabins & Chalets

Swedes are all for the outdoors, and cabins and chalets (stugor) are everywhere, either at campsites or scattered liberally through the countryside. Most contain four beds, with two- and six-person cabins sometimes on offer, too. They’re particularly good value for small groups and families, costing between Skr350 and Skr800 per night. In peak summer season, many are rented out by the week (generally for between Skr800 and Skr5000).

The cheapest cabins are simple, with bunk beds and little else (you share the bathroom and kitchen facilities with campers or other cabin users). Chalets are generally fully equipped with their own kitchen, bathroom and even living room with TV. Bring your own linen and clean up yourself to save cleaning fees of around Skr500.

Pick up the brochure Campsites & Cottages in Sweden: Greater Freedom from any tourist office, or check out the website www.stuga.nu.

Camping

Camping is wildly popular in Sweden, and there are hundreds of camping grounds all over the country. Most open between May and August only. The majority are extremely busy family holiday spots with fantastic facilities, like shops, restaurants, pools, playgrounds, canoe or bike rentals, minigolf, kitchens and laundry facilities. Most also have cabins or chalets.

Camping prices vary (according to

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