Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [32]
Kungsleden
Kungsleden, meaning ‘The King’s Trail’, is Sweden’s most important waymarked hiking and skiing route, running for 450km from Abisko (in the north of Lappland) to Hemavan. The route is normally split into five mostly easy or moderate sections. The fifth section has a gap of 188km in STF’s hut network, between Kvikkjokk and Ammarnäs. The most popular section is the northern one, from Abisko to Nikkaluokta; Sweden’s highest mountain Kebnekaise (2111m) is a glorious extra for this section.
ABISKO TO NIKKALUOKTA
From Abisko it’s 72km to Singi, 86km to Kebnekaise Fjällstation and 105km to Nikkaluokta (seven to eight days; Fjällkartan BD6). This section of Kungsleden passes through spectacular alpine scenery and is usually followed from north to south. It includes a 33km-long trail from Singi to Nikkaluokta, which isn’t part of Kungsleden, but allows an easy exit from the area. An alternative (and much more challenging) start is from Riksgränsen on the Norway-Sweden border; the 30km route from there to STF’s Unna Allakas is very rocky in places and you’ll need to camp en route.
The STF has mountain lodges at Abisko and Kebnekaise, and there are also five STF huts. Many people stop at STF’s Kebnekaise Fjällstation for a couple of nights, and some attempt the ascent of Kebnekaise (Sweden’s highest mountain) from there – see below.
Public transport is available at Abisko, with rail connections to Narvik (Norway), or east to Kiruna (Skr91, 1½ hours) and beyond. There are two buses that run daily between Abisko and Kiruna (Skr85 to Skr103, 1½ hours), and also a twice-daily bus service that runs between Nikkaluokta and Kiruna (Skr76, one hour).
KEBNEKAISE
The (optional) hike to the top of Sweden’s highest mountain is one of the best in the country and the views of the surrounding peaks and glaciers are incredible on a clear day. In July and August, the marked trail up the southern flanks is usually snow-free and no technical equipment is required to reach the southern top (2111m). To get to the northern top (2097m) from the southern top involves an airy traverse of a knife-edge ice ridge with a rope, an ice axe and crampons. Fjällkartan BD6 (Abisko–Kebnekaise) covers the route at 1:100,000, but there’s also the very detailed 1:20,000 Fjällkartan Kebnekaise.
‘The hike to the top of Kebnekaise is one of the best in the country and the views of the surrounding peaks and glaciers are incredible on a clear day’
The trip involves 1900m of ascent and descent. Allow 12 hours, and an extra 1½ hours if you want to include the northern top.
NIKKALUOKTA TO SALTOLUOKTA
This section is 71km from Nikkaluokta to Vakkotavare, and 38km from Singi to Saltoluokta (five days; Fjällkartan BD8). The scenery south of Singi is more rounded and less dramatic than the landscape around Kebnekaise. STF has mountain lodges at Kebnekaise and Saltoluokta, and regular huts along the trail. You may have to row yourself 1km across lake Teusajaure (there’s an STF boat service in peak season). Everyone takes the bus along the road from Vakkotavare to Kebnats (Skr70 to Skr100), where there’s an STF ferry across the lake to Saltoluokta Fjällstation. There’s a twice-daily bus service from Ritsem to Gällivare via Vakkotavare and Kebnats.
SALTOLUOKTA TO KVIKKJOKK
This section is 73km (four days; Fjällkartan BD10). Excellent side trips can be taken from Aktse into Sarek National Park, the wildest part of Sweden. Saltoluokta to Kvikkjokk can be completed in four days, but allow six days to include trips into Sarek.
STF has a lodge at Saltoluokta, huts at Sitojaure, Aktse and Pårte, and another lodge in Kvikkjokk.
Sami families run private boat services across the lakes at Sitojaure and Aktse, which can be arranged through the STF lodges. Kvikkjokk has a twice-daily bus service in summer to Jokkmokk (Skr134) train station.
KVIKKJOKK