Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [33]
This section is 188km (two weeks; Fjällkartan BD14 for the north section, Fjällkartan BD16 for south). There are only a few locally run huts on this section, so you’ll need a tent. The more interesting northern part, Kvikkjokk to Jäkkvik (99km), can be completed in five or six days.
Boat services for lake crossings are available at Kvikkjokk, Vuonatjviken (Lake Riebnes) and Saudal (Hornavan). Buses run six days per week (not Saturday) from Skellefteå to Bodø (Norway) via Jäkkvik, and one to four times daily from Sorsele to Ammarnäs.
AMMARNÄS TO HEMAVAN
This section is 78km (four to five days; Fjällkartan AC2). Most of the southernmost section of Kungsleden runs through Vindelfjällens Nature Reserve. The trail is mostly easy, but with a long initial climb.
The STF has hostels at Ammarnäs and Hemavan and five huts en route, which all sell provisions.
The Umeå–Hemavan bus runs three or four times daily (Skr233, six hours, only once on Sunday), and continues to Mo i Rana (Norway; eight hours, once daily).
Padjelantaleden
The entire 139km Padjelantaleden can be hiked in eight to 14 days (Fjällkartan BD10 and Fjällkartan BD7). It’s generally an easy route, with long sections of duckboards, and all rivers are bridged. The southern section, from Kvikkjokk to Staloluokta (four or five days), is the most popular. At the northern end (by lake Akkajaure), you can start at either STF hut, Vaisaluokta or Akka (the latter is easier). Most of the trail lies in Padjelanta National Park, and all huts in the park are owned by Naturvårdsverket (Swedish Environmental Protection Agency; 08-698 10 00; www.environ.se).
‘The mountainous part of western Jämtland is one of Sweden’s most popular hiking areas’
STF runs the Såmmarlappa, Tarrekaise and Njunjes huts at the southern end of the trail, and the hostel at Kvikkjokk. You can buy provisions at Staloluokta, Såmmarlappa, Tarrekaise and Kvikkjokk.
To reach the northern end of the trail, take the bus from Gällivare to Ritsem (twice daily) and connect there with the STF ferry to Vaisaluokta and Änonjálmme (1.5km north of the Akka STF hut), which runs from Midsummer to early September, one to three times daily. For details of boats from the end of Padjelantaleden to Kvikkjokk (up to three times daily from July to mid-September), call 0971-210 12. Helicopters (0971-210 40, 0971-210 68) serve Staloluokta from Ritsem or Kvikkjokk daily from Midsummer up until early August (adult/child Skr850/600).
Jämtland
The mountainous part of western Jämtland is one of Sweden’s most popular hiking areas. There’s a good network of easy to moderate hiking trails served by STF lodges and huts. The most popular route is the ‘Jämtland Triangle’ (47km), which takes a minimum of three days; allow an extra day for an ascent of the magnificent mountain Sylarna (1743m), easily climbed from STF’s Sylarna lodge – the route is clearly marked with cairns. The hike runs between STF’s Storulvån, Sylarna and Blåhammaren lodges. Sylarna and Blåhammaren don’t have road access and Sylarna only has self-catering; Blåhammaren serves full meals. The section from Sylarna to Blåhammaren is very marshy and can be quite difficult in wet conditions. Fjällkartan Z6 covers the area.
Click here for public transport details.
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MOUNTAINEERING & ROCK CLIMBING
Mountaineers head for Sylarna, Helagsfjället, Sarek National Park and the Kebnekaise region.
The complete traverse of Sylarna involves rock climbing up to grade 3. The ridge traverse of Sarektjåhkkå (2089m) in Sarek, the second-highest mountain in Sweden, is about grade 4. There are lots of other glacier and rock routes in Sarek. The Kebnekaise area has many fine climbing routes (grades 2 to 6), including the north wall of Kaskasapakte (2043m), and the steep ridges of Knivkammen (1878m) and Vaktposten (1852m). Ice climbing in the northern regions is excellent, if you can put up with the darkness and the cold.
‘Cycling is an excellent way to look for prehistoric sites, rune stones and quiet spots for free camping’
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