Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [62]
Östermalm
BUDGET
Café Saturnus (Map; 611 77 00; Eriksbergsgatan 6; baguettes/pastries Skr25/55, Skr25; 7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun) For velvety caffé latte, Gallic-inspired baguettes and perfect pastries, saunter into this casually chic bakery-cafe. Sporting a stunning mosaic floor, and a hit with everyone from yummy mummies to Swedish princesses, it’s a fabulous spot to flick through the paper while devouring Stockholm’s finest cinnamon bun.
MIDRANGE
Brasserie Elverket (Map; 661 25 62; Linnégatan 69; lunch Skr79-145, dinner mains Skr185-285, 2-course theatre menu Skr265; 11am-1am Tue-Sat) In an old electricity plant reborn as an experimental theatre, this slick, dimly-lit resto-bar peddles bold, adventurous grub like melon and vanilla consommé served with cardamom pannacotta and a pineapple-sage salsa. Starters are a pick-and-mix tapas-style affair, and the weekend brunch buffet (Skr189) is one of Stockholm’s best. Fed, kick back in the slinky lounge with an absinthe-laced Belgian Bastard.
Örtagården (Map; 662 17 28; Nybrogatan 31, 1st fl, Östermalms Saluhall Bldg; lunch/dinner buffet Skr85/135; 10.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-9pm Sat & Sun) Perched above Östermalms Saluhall, this popular, casual restaurant spoils punters with its extensive vegetarian lunch and dinner buffet, which includes fresh fruit and diet-defying sweet treats.
Sturehof (Map; 440 57 30; Stureplan 2; mains Skr155-545; 11am-2am Mon-Fri, noon-2am Sat, 1pm-2am Sun) Superb for late-night sipping and supping, this buzzing, convivial brasserie sparkles with gracious staff, celebrity regulars, and fabulous seafood-centric dishes (the bouillabaisse is brilliant). Both the front and back bars are a hit with the eye-candy brigade and perfect for a post-meal flirt.
Djurgården
BUDGET
Rosendals Trädgårdskafe (Map; 54 58 12 70; Rosendalsterrassen 12; cakes Skr25-35, sandwiches Skr45-65; 11am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun May-Sep, 11am-4pm Tue-Sun Oct-Dec, closed Jan) Rosendals is an idyllic spot for heavenly carrot cake and an organic wine in the summer or a warm cup of glögg (mulled wine) and a lussekatte (saffron bun) in winter. Much of the produce is biodynamic and grown on site, and the cafe-shop (closed January and February) sells everything from preserved lemons and freshly baked bread to Rosendals’ very own cookbook. Take bus 47, then it’s a 15-minute walk from Djurgårdsbron.
Blå Porten (Map; 663 87 59; Djurgårdsvägen 64; pastries from Skr20, mains Skr78-150; 11am-7pm, to 9pm Tue & Thu, longer hours in summer) Blissful on sunny days, when you can linger over lunch or fika (coffee and cake) in the Monet-like garden, this cafe next to Liljevalchs Konsthall boasts an obscenely tempting display of baked goods, as well as lip-smacking Scandi and global meals. Mercifully, many of Djurgården’s museums are within rolling distance.
TOP END
Wärdshuset Ulla Winbladh (Map; 663 05 71; www.ullawinbladh.se; Rosendalsvägen 8; starters Skr95-185, mains Skr110-395) Named after one of Carl Michael Bellman’s lovers, this villa was built as a steam bakery for the Stockholm World’s Fair (1897) and now serves fine food in intimate rooms and a blissful garden setting. Sup on skilful dishes like lake Hjälmaren pikeperch fried with mustard, creamy barley and crayfish, or opt for simple Scandi favourites (Skr110 to Skr145), including herring with Kvibille cheese and homemade crispbread. Roxette fans – ask the staff to point out singer Marie Fredriksson’s artwork. Book a week ahead in summer.
Restaurang Hasselbacken (Map; 51 73 43 07; www.restauranghasselbacken.com; Hazeliusbacken 20; mains Skr245-315, 2-/3-course menu Skr385/435; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sun) Slip into this vintage, jewel-box dining room for modern Scandi fare like white asparagus with rhubarb glaze, black morel and parmesan foam.