Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [63]
Södermalm
BUDGET
Nystekt Strömming (Map; Södermalmstorg; hours vary, generally 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun) The best place to get fried (stekt) herring in all of Stockholm is this humble cart outside the metro station at Slussen. Combo plates cost about Skr30 to Skr50.
String (Map; 714 85 14; Nytorgsgatan 38; coffee & pastries around Skr45, salads Skr59-69; 9.30am-9pm Mon-Thu, 9.30am-7.30pm Fri, 10.30am-7pm Sat & Sun) This retro-funky SoFo cafe does a bargain weekend brunch buffet (Skr65; 10.30am to 1pm). Load your plate with everything from cereals, yoghurt and fresh fruit to pancakes, toast and amazing homemade hummus. Fancy that ’70s chair you’re plonked on? Take it home; almost everything you see is for sale.
MIDRANGE
Crêperie Fyra Knop (Map; 640 77 27; Svartensgatan 4; crepes from Skr48, mains Skr80-98; dinner Mon-Fri, lunch & dinner weekends) Head here for perfect crêpes in an intimate setting with a hint of shanty-town chic – think reggae tunes and old tin billboards for Stella Artois. A good place for a quiet tête-á-tête before you hit the clubs down the street.
Östgöta Källaren (Map; 643 22 40; Östgötagatan 41; lunch Skr68-98, mains Skr115-189; to 1am, kitchen closes 11.30pm) The regulars at this soulful pub-cum-restaurant range from multipierced rockers to blue-rinse grandmas, all smitten with the dimly lit romantic atmosphere, amiable vibe and hearty Swedish, Eastern European and French-Med grub.
Pelikan (Map; 55 60 90 90; Blekingegatan 40; mains Skr75-185; dinner daily, lunch Sat & Sun; minimum age 23yr) Lofty ceilings, wood panelling and no-nonsense waiters in waistcoats set the scene for classic husmanskost at this century-old beer hall. The herring options are particularly good and there’s usually a vegetarian special to boot.
Bistro Street (Map; 658 63 50; www.streetinstockholm.se, in Swedish; Hornstulls Strand 4; lunch Skr82-125, dinner mains Skr155-255; 11am-11pm Mon & Tue, 11.30am-1am Wed-Sat, 11.30am-6pm Sun) Södermalm’s weekend market street is one of Stockholm’s coolest hang-outs, and this is its equally popular restaurant-bar-lounge. Grit-chic concrete floors, hot-pink warehouse ceiling and low-slung bulbs mix it with mainly organic, tasty grub spanning Swedish and Mediterranean cuisines. DJs work the wax at the regular Friday and Saturday club nights, and the waterside tables are coveted summertime spots.
Koh Phangan (Map; 642 50 40; www.kohphangan.nu, in Swedish; Skånegatan 57; mains Skr139-265; to 11pm Sun-Fri, to midnight Sat) Best at night, this outrageously kitsch Thai restaurant has to be seen to be believed. Tuck into your kao pat gai (chicken fried rice) in a real tuk-tuk to the accompanying racket of crickets and tropical thunder, or kick back with beers in a bamboo hut. DJs occasionally hit the decks and it’s best to book ahead.
TOP END
Gondolen (Map; 641 70 90; Stadsgården 6; mains Skr130-320, 3-course menu Skr490, degustation menu Skr750; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) Perched atop the iconic Katarinahissen (the vintage Slussen elevator), Gondolen combines killer city views with contemporary Nordic brilliance from chef Erik Lallerstedt. Play ‘spot the landmark’ while carving into gems like thyme-roasted halibut with lobster sauce and root-vegetable cake.
Kungsholmen
BUDGET
Vurma (Map; 650 93 50; Polhemsgatan 15; sandwiches Skr27-69, salads Skr73, 10am-6pm) Squeeze in among the chattering punters, fluff up the cushions and eavesdrop over a vegan latte at this kitsch-hip cafe-bakery. The scrumptious sandwiches and salads are utterly inspired; try the chevre, marinated chicken, tomato, cucumber, walnuts, apple and mustard salad. You’ll find other branches in Vasastan (Map; Gästrikegatan 2) and Södermalm (Map; Bergsunds Strand 31).
Il Caffé (Map; 652 30 04; Bergsgatan 17; focaccia Skr47-95; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) Low-strung lights, edgy graphic murals and indie-cool regulars load this cafe bolt-hole with boho grit. The authentic focaccias are