Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [64]
MIDRANGE
Kungsholmen (Map; 50 52 44 50; Norr Mälarstrand, Kajplats 464; soup Skr95-230, sushi 140-325, grill Skr215-325; 5pm-1am Mon-Sun) Owned by celebrity chef Melker Andersson, this hip, sexed-up ‘food court’ features six open kitchens cooking up different specialities, including soups, sushi, bistro grub, bread and ice cream. Add a sleek, cocktail-savvy bar, weekend DJ sessions and a waterside location, and you’ll understand why it’s best to book.
Bergamott (Map; 650 30 34; Hantverkargatan 35; mains Skr180-350; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Tue-Sat) The trés-cool French chefs in the kitchen don’t simply whip up to-die-for French-Italian dishes – they’ll probably deliver them to your table, talk you through the produce and suggest the perfect drop. It’s never short of a convivial crowd, so book ahead, especially when jazz musicians drop by for a soulful evening jam.
Market Halls
From Kalix roe to robust chorizo, Stockholm’s market halls are prime spots to dig into local and global treats.
Östermalms Saluhall (Map; Östermalmstorg; 9.30am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 6.30pm Fri & 4pm Sat) Stockholm’s historic, blue-riband market spoils tastebuds with fresh fish, seafood and meat, as well as fruits, vegetables and hard-to-find cheeses. The building itself is a Stockholm landmark, designed as a Romanesque cathedral of food in 1885. For a quick lunch, belly up to the bar at Sushi Baren; for a real treat, book a table at Lisa Elmqvist (meals Skr140 to Skr310), one of the city’s top seafood eateries (trust the staff’s recommendations). There’s a clean, free, well-hidden toilet in the far corner opposite the market entrance.
Hötorgshallen (Map; Hötorget; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat Jun & Jul; 10am-6pm Mon-Thu, 10am-6.30pm Fri, 10am-4pm Sat rest of year) Located below Filmstaden cinema, Hötorgshallen is Stockholm at its multicultural best, its stalls selling everything from fresh Nordic seafood to fluffy hummus and fragrant teas. Ready-to-eat options include Lebanese spinach parcels, kebabs and vegetarian burgers. For the ultimate feed, squeeze into galley-themed dining nook Kajsas Fiskrestaurang for soulful fisksoppa (fish stew) with mussels and aioli (Skr80).
Söderhallarna (Map; Medborgarplatsen 3; 10am-6pm Mon-Wed, 10am-7pm Thu & Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) This more modern food hall peddles every-thing from cheese and smallgoods to decent vegetarian grub.
Self-Catering
The handiest central supermarket is Hemköp (Map; Klarabergsgatan 50; 7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat & Sun), in the Åhléns department store. Others include:
Coop Konsum (Map; Katarinavägen 3-7; 7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun)
ICA Baronen (Map; Odengatan 40; 8am-10pm)
Vivo T-Jarlen (Map; inside Östermalmstorg Tunnelbana station; 7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat, 11am-7pm Sun) Enter from Grev Turegatan.
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DRINKING
Stockholm’s bar scene is as kicking as it is pricey. From grit-chic factory conversions to raucous vintage beer halls, you’re bound to find a spot worth a toast. Many of the city’s hottest restaurants have bars attached, making for an easy night on the tiles. For beautiful crowds and a glammy vibe, your best bet is Östermalm. Hip spots also stud Norrmalm, Vasastaden and Kungsholmen, although the undisputed bar scene heavyweight is Södermalm, where options offer everything from old-school pubs to alt-cool bar-gallery hybrids.
Marie Laveau (Map; 668 85 00; www.marielaveau.se, in Swedish; Hornsgatan 66; 5pm-midnight Tue & Wed, 5pm-3am Thu-Sat) In an old sausage factory, this kicking Söder play-pen draws a boho-chic crowd. The designer-grunge bar (think chequered floor and subway-style tiled columns) serves killer cocktails and contemporary nosh (Skr84 to Skr199), while the sweaty basement hosts thumping club night Bangers ’n’ Mash on Saturday.
Pet Sounds Bar (Map; 643 82 25; www.petsoundsbar.se, in Swedish; Skånegatan 80; from 5pm Mon-Sat) A SoFo favourite, this jamming bar pulls in music journos, indie culture vultures and the odd Goth rocker. While the restaurant serves