Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [76]
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VAXHOLM
Despite the summer hordes, Vaxholm redeems itself with its easy accessibility, charming side streets and story-book summerhouses. The latter were a hit with fashionable 19th-century urbanites, who flocked here for some seaside R&R. An easy 35km northeast of the city, the settlement itself was founded in 1647, with the oldest buildings in Norrhamn, a few minutes’ walk north of the town hall. Equally photogenic is Hamngatan, awash with interesting architecture, galleries, boutiques and souvenir shops. Vaxholm’s most famous local, however, is its hulking fortress. It’s also the gateway to the archipelago’s central and northern reaches.
Information
The tourist office (54 13 14 80; www.vaxholm.se; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug; 10am-3pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat & Sun Sep-May) inside the rådhus (town hall) is off Hamngatan; look for the onion dome, a product of the rådhus rebuilding in 1925. Also on Hamngatan are a bank, supermarkets and other services.
Sights
The construction of Vaxholm Kastell (Citadel; 54 17 21 57; adult/under 19yr Skr50/free; 11am-4pm Jun, 11am-5pm Jul & Aug, 11am-5pm 1st & 2nd weekends Sep), a fortress on an islet just east of the town, was originally ordered by Gustav Vasa in 1544, but most of the current structure dates from 1863. The fortress was attacked by the Danes in 1612 and the Russian navy in 1719. Nowadays, it’s home to the National Museum of Coastal Defence and a restaurant and conference centre. The ferry across to the island departs regularly from Söderhamn (the bustling harbour) and costs Skr40 return.
The Hembygdsgård (54 13 17 20; Trädgårdsgatan 19; admission free; 11am-4pm Sat & Sun May-Aug) preserves the finest old houses in Norrhamn. The fiskarebostad is an excellent example of a late-19th-century fisherman’s house, complete with typical Swedish fireplace. The cafe here is open daily from May to mid-September.
Sleeping & Eating
Vaxholm/Bogesunds Slottsvandrarhem (54 17 50 60; info@bogesundsslottsvandrarhem.se; dm from Skr185; ) By a castle 5km southwest of Vaxholm, this is a pleasant, well-equipped STF hostel, complete with summertime cafe and a blissfully bucolic setting. Bus 681 stops on the main road about 500m from the hostel.
Waxholms Hotell (54 13 01 50; info@waxholmshotell.se; Hamngatan 2; s/d from Skr1100/1125; ) Just opposite the harbour front, Waxholms combines art nouveau and modern detailing. Discounted rooms are available here in July, and on weekends year-round. This grand place is in the centre of the action, and there are restaurants on the premises, including Kabyssen with meals (Skr100 to Skr325) and a popular outdoor terrace.
Melanders Fisk (54 13 34 66; Hamngatan 2; 10am-6pm Fri, 10am-2pm Sat, longer hours in summer) On the waterfront, Melanders Fisk is a sound bet for quality grub. Predictably, it’s the venerable fish and seafood dishes that keep the punters rolling in.
Getting There & Away
Bus 670 from the metro station T-Tekniska Högskolan runs regularly to the town.
Waxholmsbolaget (Map; 679 58 30; www.waxholmsbolaget.se) boats sail frequently between Vaxholm and Strömkajen in Stockholm (about 40 minutes). Strömma Kanalbolaget (Map; 12 00 40 00; www.strommakanalbolaget.com) sails between Strandvägen and Vaxholm three times daily from mid-June to mid-August (one way/return Skr125/200); once daily Tuesday to Sunday from early May to mid-June and mid-August to early October; once daily Thursday to Sunday early February to early May and early October to late November; and once daily Saturday and Sunday late November to late December and mid-January to early February (no services late December to mid-January).
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STOCKHOLM ARCHIPELAGO
Mention the archipelago to Stockholmers and prepare for gushing adulation. Buffering the city from the open Baltic Sea, it’s a mesmerising wonderland of buffed isles studded with deep forests and fields of wild flowers. Exactly how many islands there are is debatable, with headcounts ranging