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from 14,000 to 100,000 (the general consensus is 24,000). Whatever the number, it’s an unmissable area and much closer to the city than many visitors imagine, with regular ferry services and a number of organised tours for easy island hopping. Hostels, camping grounds and more upmarket slumber options make longer stays an inviting option, as does the growing number of smashing restaurants. And while the archipelago is an obvious summer playground, don’t underestimate its wintertime appeal, when silent, snow-laced landscapes make for a soothing sojourn.

Information

Destination Stockholms Skärgård (54 24 81 00; www.dess.se; Lillström, 18497 Ljusterö) For information on cabin and chalet rental in the archipelago.

Visit Skärgården (Map; 10 02 22; www.visitskargarden.se, in Swedish; Kajplats 18, Strandvägen; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun) This new waterside information centre can advise on (and book) various types of archipelago accommodation and tours, as well as give you ideas on what to see and do. www.skargardsstiftelsen.se For excellent archipelago information in English and other languages.

Activities

The biggest boat operator in the archipelago is Waxholmsbolaget (Map; 679 58 30; www.waxholmsbolaget.se). Timetables and information are available from its offices outside the Grand Hotel on Strömkajen in Stockholm, at the harbour in Vaxholm, and online. The company divides the archipelago into three areas: Norra Skärgården is the northern section (north from Ljusterö to Arholma); Mellersta Skärgården is the middle section, taking in Vaxholm, Ingmarsö, Stora Kalholmen, Finnhamn, Möja and Sandhamn; and Södra Skärgården is the southern section, with boats south to Nämdö, Ornö and Utö.

Waxholmbolaget’s Båtluffarkortet (Boat Hiking Pass) gives unlimited rides on its services (Skr420 for five days) plus a handy archipelago map with suggested itineraries.

If time is short, consider taking the Thousand Island Cruise offered by Stromma Kanalbolaget (Map; 12 00 40 00; www.strommakanalbolaget.com; Nybrokajen), running daily between late June and early August. The full-day tour departs from Stockholm’s Nybrokajen at 9.30am and returns at 8.30pm; the cost of Skr995 includes lunch, dinner, drinks and guided tours ashore. The tour includes three island stops and swimming opportunities.

Islands

ARHOLMA

Arholma is one of the most interesting islands in the archipelago’s far north. Everything was burnt down during a Russian invasion in 1719; the landmark lighthouse was rebuilt in the 19th century. A popular resort in the early 20th century, it’s noted for its traditional village and chapel, as well as its fine sandy beaches and rocky bathing spots.

Arholma has a summer cafe, a shop, a simple camping ground and bike and kayak rental. Vandrarhem Arholma (0176-560 18; beds Skr140; year-round) is a pleasant STF hostel in a renovated barn; advance booking is essential.

You can take bus 676 from Stockholm Tekniska Högskolan to Norrtälje, then 636 to Simpnäs (three to six daily), followed by a 20-minute ferry crossing to the island (Skr30).

SIARÖFORTET

The tiny island of Kyrkogårdsön, in the important sea lane just north of Ljusterö (40km due northeast of Stockholm), may be only 400m long but it’s one of the archipelago’s most fascinating islands.

After the outbreak of WWI, military authorities decided that the Vaxholm Kastell just didn’t cut it, so construction of a new fort began on Kyrkogårdsön in 1916. Dubbed Siaröfortet, it’s now a fascinating museum (Skr50), where you can check out the officers’ mess, kitchen, sleeping quarters and tunnels, plus two impressive 15.2cm cannons (they’re trained on passing Viking Line ferries!). There are no fixed opening times; contact the STF hostel to arrange a tour.

STF Vandrarhem Siaröfortet (24 30 90; beds Skr180; late Apr–mid-Oct) is an excellent STF hostel in the old soldiers’ barracks. Canoe hire and breakfast are available; advance booking is recommended.

Blidösundsbolaget (24 30 90; www.blidosundsbolaget.se, in Swedish) ferries to Siaröfortet depart from Strömkajen