Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [78]
FINNHAMN
This 900m-long island, northeast of Stockholm, combines lush woods and meadows with sheltered coves, rocky cliffs and visiting eagle owls. While it’s a popular summertime spot, there are enough quiet corners to indulge your inner hermit.
Vandrarhem Finnhamn (54 24 62 12; info@finnhamn.nu; dm Skr260; year-round; ) is an STF hostel in a large wooden villa, with boat hire available. It’s the largest hostel in the archipelago; advance booking is essential. The Finnhamns Café & Krog (54 24 64 04) boasts good meals and a sterling view.
Waxholmsbolaget (Map; 679 58 30) sails from Strömkajen (Stockholm) to Finnhamn, via Vaxholm, around twice daily (Skr130, 2½ hours). Cinderella Båtarna (Map; 12 00 40 00) also sails here daily from early May to mid-September, with reduced services mid-April to early May. Boats depart from Strandvägen in Stockholm (Skr140, one hour and 10 minutes).
SANDÖN
A manageable 2.5km long, Sandön is the archipelago’s summertime party hot spot. Stockholm status slaves sail in on 12-footers for Midsummer schmoozing and boozing, while serious sailors flock here for regattas like the Gotland Rund each July. So the place is rather expensive and best visited as a day trip. Camping is prohibited. Sandön’s hub is the northern settlement of Sandhamn. Here, narrow alleys, rust-red cottages and the Royal Swedish Yacht Club’s Hamptons-style clubhouse keep the cameras clicking. For the best beaches, head to Trovill, near the island’s southern tip.
Dykarbaren (57 15 35 54; lunch meals Skr90-250, dinner mains Skr165-275) is a popular restaurant-bar just 50m from the quay, with lunch specials from Skr75.
The historic Sandhamns Värdshus (57 15 30 51; mains Skr110-223; s/d from Skr740/990) serves a lip-smacking fish and shellfish casserole.
Leader of the island’s culinary pack is Seglarrestaurangen (57 45 04 21; mains Skr170-300), considered one of the archipelago’s best restaurants. You’ll find it inside the upmarket Seglarhotellet (57 45 04 00; www.sandhamn.com; d Skr2090-2290), whose spa centre (adult/child Skr100/50, hotel guests free) combo of indoor pool, Jacuzzi, sauna and gym is open to nonguests.
Waxholmsbolaget (679 58 30) sails from Strömkajen to Sandhamn, via Vaxholm, once daily (Skr140, three hours). Cinderella Båtarna (12 00 40 00) does the same run from mid-April to mid-September; boats leave from Strandvägen (Skr140).
A quicker option is to take bus 433 or 434 from Slussen to Stavsnäs (50 minutes) and catch a ferry from there (Skr75, 40 to 60 minutes). Check ferry times at www.waxholmsbolaget.se before catching the bus to avoid a long wait at Stavsnäs.
Strömma Kanalbolaget (12 00 40 00) runs tours from Nybroplan to Sandhamn daily between early June and mid-August (one way/return Skr205/275), departing at 9.45am and returning at 5.45pm (with two hours at Sandhamn). The price includes a one-hour guided walk.
SVARTSÖ
Rugged Svartsö (Black Island) is another ‘mid archipelago’ gem. At just over 5km wide and 2km long, its resident population of 77 booms to 2500 in the summer, when fans step ashore for low-fuss rural bliss. Thick with tall trees, old farmers’ fields and five lakes, its relatively flat landscape makes it perfect for a day’s lazy cycling. It’s also a good spot for birdwatching in the spring and autumn.
At its southernmost point sits tiny Alsvik, one of two ferry stops on Svartsö (the other is at Skälvik). Here you’ll find a waterside cafe in the summer, as well as five tiny, basic cabins (54 24 71 10; Skr450) for rent. Accommodation is of the bunk-bed variety, with a handy cooker in each cabin. There are no bathroom facilities; there’s a bathing spot 100m away for back-to-nature grooming.
Also at the harbour, handy Svartsö Lanthandel (54 24 73 25; www.svartsolanthandel.se, in Swedish; year-round) is a