Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [79]
Svartsö Herrgårdspensionat (54 24 70 17; www.svartsoherrgardspensionat.se, in Swedish; May-Oct) offers more upmarket accommodation in a summerhouse built by famous theatre director Gustaf Collijn in 1906. The cosy rooms ooze vintage charm (think wooden floorboards, pale hues and ceramic tile stoves), although all share an outdoor toilet and shower. Downstairs, the vintage-chic restaurant comes with a crackling fire and fabulous seasonal menus using local produce. Other perks include both a lakeside and seaside sauna. From Alsvik, the pension is located 3km away by road or 1km via walking track through forest. An easier option is to disembark the ferry at Svartsös second port, Skälvik, located a few hundred metres from the pension.
Waxholmsbolaget (679 58 30) sails from Strömkajen in Stockholm to Alsvik and Skälvik, via Vaxholm, twice daily (Skr110 one way, approximately two hours). Around four daily ferries head to Svartsö from Boda.
To reach Boda, take bus 438 from Slussen in Stockholm, but check the ferry schedule at www.waxholmsbolaget.se beforehand to avoid long connection times.
From early May to mid-September, Cinderella Båtarna (12 00 40 00) runs several times daily in peak season to Svartsö (Skr135, 1½ hours), via Vaxholm, from Strandvägen. Reduced services operate between mid-April and early May.
UTÖ
Star of the archipelago’s southern section, Utö has it all: sublime sandy beaches, lush fairy-tale forests, sleepy farms, abundant birdlife and a scandalously good restaurant. Thirteen kilometres long and up to 4km wide, its network of roads and tracks make for heavenly cycling sessions.
You can get a reasonable sketch map of the island from the tourist office (50 15 74 10; 10am-4pm May-Sep), found in a small cabin by the guest harbour at Gruvbryggan, also known as Gruvbyn (the northernmost village). When the tourist office is closed, ask at the värdshus, just up the hill.
Sights & Activities
Most of the sights are at the northern end of the island, near Gruvbryggan. The most unusual is Sweden’s oldest iron mine, which opened in 1150 but closed in 1879. The three pits are now flooded – the deepest is Nyköp ingsgruvan (215m). The mining museum (opposite the värdshus) keeps variable hours, so check locally. The well-preserved, 18th-century miners’ houses on Lurgatan are worth a peek, while the Dutch-style windmill (11am-3pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug) peddles beautiful coastal views. The best sandy beach is Stora Sand on the south coast; it’s a gorgeous 40-minute bike ride from the värdshus. Routes to the beach are occasionally closed due to military training exercises; ask at the tourist office for updates. To eye up the glaciated rock slabs on the east coast, walk for about 20 minutes through the forest towards Rävstavik.
Sleeping & Eating
STF hostel (50 42 03 15; receptionen@utovardshus.se; Gruvbyggan; dm Skr330) Open from May to September, this hostel, associated with the nearby värdshus, is in a former summer house. Reception and meals are at the värdshus.
Utö Värdshus (50 42 03 00; receptionen@utovardshus.se; d chalets incl breakfast per person from Skr995) This is the only hotel on the island, with good facilities and a sterling gourmet restaurant (closed January; lunches Skr89 to Skr119, mains around Skr200).
Dannekrogen (50 15 70 79; mains Skr150-200) Near the Gruvbryggan harbour, Dannekrogen has a younger, more casual vibe, with grub ranging from hearty fish stew to trendy polenta. The adjoining bakery peddles scrumptious treats, including some delicious carrot cake cupcakes.
There’s a handy little supermarket across the street.
Getting There & Around
From Stockholm, Waxholmsbolaget sails once daily to Utö (Skr130, 3½ hours).