Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [122]
AH! (Map; 0 2252 6069; Atlanta Hotel, 78 Soi Phasak/2, Th Sukhumvit; dishes 60-150B; breakfast, lunch & dinner; Skytrain Ploenchit) The Atlanta Hotel’s delightful vintage diner is one of the few places that excels both in atmosphere and cuisine. Delve back into 1950s-era ‘continental’ dishes, such as Hungarian goulash or wiener schnitzel, or acclaimed vegetarian Thai.
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FOOD COURT FRENZY
Every Bangkok mall worth its escalators has some sort of food court. In recent years many have gone upscale, and the setting, cuisine and service have also elevated accordingly. The following are some of the better choices.
Big C Food Court (Map; 0 2250 4888; 5th floor, Big C Department Store, 97/11 Th Ratchadamri; 9am-10pm; Skytrain Chitlom) Big C’s food court is the proletariat of the genre. The food selections here are not going to inspire you to move east, but they are numerous and cheap, and representative of the kind of ‘fast food’ Thais enjoy eating. To pay you must first exchange your cash for a temporary credit card at one of several counters; your change is refunded at the same desk.
Food Loft (Map; 6th floor, Central Chit Lom, 1027 Th Ploenchit; 10am-10pm; Skytrain Chitlom) Central Chit Lom pioneered the concept of the upscale food court, and mock-ups of the various Indian, Italian, Singaporean and other international dishes aid in the decision-making process. Upon entering, you’ll be given a temporary credit card and will be led to a table. You have to get up again to order, but the dishes will be brought to you. Paying is done on your way out.
MBK Food Court (Map; 6th floor, MBK Center, cnr Th Phra Ram I & Th Phayathai; 10am-9pm; Skytrain National Stadium) The granddaddy of the genre offers dozens of vendors selling food from virtually every corner of Thailand and beyond. Standouts include an excellent vegetarian food stall (stall C8) and a very decent Isan food vendor (C22).
Park Food Hall (Map; 5th floor, Emporium Shopping Centre, 622 Th Sukhumvit, cnr Soi 24; 10am-10pm; Skytrain Phrom Phong) Emporium brings together some of the city’s best-known international restaurants. The Emporium Food Hall, on the same floor, features cheaper, mostly Chinese/Thai food, and what must be the cheapest meal with a view in town. Paying is done by buying coupons at the windows in the entrance. Be sure to leave these in your pocket until the next day, when it’s too late to get a refund – it’s an integral part of the food court experience.
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Boon Tong Kiat Singapore Hainanese Chicken Rice (Map; 0 2390 2508; 440/5 & 396 Soi 55/Thong Lor, Th Sukhumvit; dishes 60-150B; lunch & dinner; Skytrain Thong Lo) Order a plate of the restaurant’s namesake and bear witness to how a dish can be simultaneously simple and profound. And while you’re there you’d be daft not order rojak, the spicy/sour fruit ‘salad’, which here is called ‘Singapore Som Tam’.
Nasser Elmassry (Map; 0 2253 5582; 4/6 Soi 3/1, Th Sukhumvit; dishes 80-350B; 8am-5am; Skytrain Nana) One of several similar Middle Eastern restaurants on Soi 3/1, Nasser Elmassry is easily recognisable by its genuinely impressive floor-to-ceiling stainless-steel ‘theme’. Middle Eastern food generally means meat, meat and more meat, but there are also several delicious veggie-based mezze.
Tapas Café (Map; 0 2651 2947; 1/25 Soi 11, Th Sukhumvit; dishes 90-550B; 11.30am-11.30pm; Skytrain Nana) Vibrant tapas, refreshing sangria and an open, airy atmosphere make this new Spaniard on the block worth the visit. Come before 7pm when tapas are buy-two, get-one-free.
Ramentei (Map; 0 2662 0050; 593/23-24 Soi 33/1, Th Sukhumvit; dishes 120-300B; lunch & dinner; Skytrain Phrom Phong) Located smack dab in the middle of Bangkok’s de facto Japanese district, this workaday