Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [123]
Sukhumvit Plaza (Korean Town; Map; cnr Soi 12 & Th Sukhumvit; lunch & dinner; Skytrain Asoke, Metro Sukhumvit) Known around town as ‘Korean Town’, this multistorey complex is the city’s best destination for authentic ‘Seoul’ food. Local residents swear by Arirang (0 2653 0177, dishes 120B to 350B) on the 1st floor, although there are slightly cheaper places in the complex as well.
Bed Supperclub (Map; 0 2651 3537; www.bedsupperclub.com; 26 Soi 11, Th Sukhumvit; 3-course à la carte dinner Sun-Thu 1450B, 4-course set dinner Fri & Sat 1850B; 7.30-10.30pm Sun-Thu, dinner 9pm Fri & Sat; Skytrain Nana) Kiwi chef Paul Hutt and his army of talented Thai chefs are creating the most cutting-edge cuisine in town. Tools and techniques ranging from liquid nitrogen to sous-vide have resulted in creations such as tomato hops-infused broth with pure haloumi cheese noodle, avocado snow and basil oil. Dinner is à la carte except on Fridays and Saturdays when Hutt does a four-course surprise menu at 9pm sharp.
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DAY OFF
Fans of street food be forewarned that all of Bangkok’s stalls close on Monday for compulsory street cleaning (the results of which are not entirely evident come Tuesday morning). If you happen to be in the city on this day, take advantage of the lull to visit one of the city’s upscale hotel restaurants, which virtually never close.
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Lumphini Park & Th Phra Ram IV
Kai Thort Jay Kee (Soi Polo Fried Chicken; Map; 0 2655 8489; 137/1-3 Soi Polo, Th Withayu/Wireless Rd; dishes 30-150B; breakfast, lunch & dinner; Skytrain Ploenchit, Metro Lumphini) Although the sôm ·am (spicy green papaya salad), sticky rice and lâhp (a Thai-style ‘salad’ of minced meat) give the impression of a northeastern Thai-style eatery, the restaurant’s namesake deep-fried bird is more southern in origin. Regardless, smothered in a thick layer of crispy deep-fried garlic, it is none other than a truly Bangkok experience.
Café 1912 (Map; 0 2679 2056; Alliance Française, 29 Th Sathon Tai; dishes 60-120B; 7am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun; Metro Lumphini) Part of the French cultural centre, and with food provided by a good local bakery, this cafeteria is a great place to fuel up while on an embassy run. Both French and Thai dishes are available, as well as coffee and delicious cakes and sweets.
Ngwan Lee Lang Suan (Map; 0 2250 0936; cnr Soi Lang Suan & Soi Sarasin; dishes 60-180B; 10am-2am; Skytrain Ratchadamri) This cavernous food hall is centrally located and open late, making it a perfect post-clubbing destination. It’s also a great place to try those dishes you never dare to order elsewhere such as jàp chi, Chinese-style stewed veggies, or the delicious èt ŭn, duck stewed in Chinese spices.
Cy’an (Map; 0 2625 3333; Metropolitan Hotel, 27 Th Sathon Tai; 9-course set dinner 3100B; lunch & dinner; Metro Lumphini) The city’s best chefs rave about this teal and grey den of gastronomic delight – always a good sign. Combining vibrant Mediterranean and Moroccan flavours, a healthy obsession with the finest seafood, and a stylish and intimate atmosphere, this is one of the best destinations for a splurge.
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HOTEL BUFFET BONANZA
Sunday brunch has become something of a Bangkok institution among resident foreigners, and virtually every large hotel in town puts together decadent buffets on every other day as well. The following choices will leave you with more than simply a distended stomach.
The highly regarded restaurants at the Four Seasons (Map; 0 2250 1000; Four Seasons Hotel, 155 Th Ratchadamri; buffet 2350B; 11.30am-3pm Sun; Skytrain Ratchadamri) set up steam tables for their decadent Sunday brunch buffet – reservations are essential. Even if you can’t afford to stay at the Oriental Hotel, you should save up for the riverside seafood buffet at Lord Jim (Map; 0 2659 9000; www.mandarinoriental.com; 48 Soi Oriental/38, Th Charoen